A couple of weeks ago, my husband and I bookended an exceptional wine trip to Bordeaux with weekends in Paris, possibly my favorite place on the planet. After a very long day of travel from California and the required lengthy stroll around town to stave off the time change, we decided to have a late dinner at tiny Le Bistro des Augustins at 39 Quai des Grands Augustins on the border of the Seine river, with a beautiful view onto the Ile de la Cité.
Unbeknownst to either of us, Le Bistro des Augustins is known for its gratin dishes, in my humble opinion, an ultimate comfort food with a French vibe. This cozy and intimate space had a brilliant menu that clearly addressed the palate of locals and visitors alike. Starters included cheeses, charcuterie, smoked salmon and quiche and each salad choice included a different protein with flavorful ingredients. Hot toasts covered with white ham and emmental cheese, smoked salmon, goat cheese or smoked duck were served on greens for a garden freshness and all the feels.
The specialty at Le Bistro des Augustins, however, was their Gratin Chauds boasting a variety of ingredients, flavors, and textures. My husband and I shared the Gratins Nordique that included potatoes, cream, smoked salmon, dill, garlic, egg, and emmental cheese. Frankly, my choice of sides or mains does not include potatoes on a regular basis, but on a brisk, chilly night in Paris with the lights of Notre Dame in view, this had my name all over it! And so did our wine.
Gratin Nordique
Wines were well priced and represented various French wine regions. Ultimately, we decided upon Jean-Maurice Raffault Chinon Rouge Les Picasses 2020 of Cabernet Franc cultivated in Chinon AOC located in the Loire Valley. Jean-Maurice Raffault’s family began growing grapes in Chinon 14 generations ago when their ancestor purchased the first vines in 1693. Now the Domaine owns 50 organically farmed hectares and this certified organic Cabernet Franc is from Les Picasses lieu dit, a windy site of stony limestone and clay overlooking the Vienne.
This wine hit the mark with its intense, fresh aromas and flavors of plums, earthy blackberries, bramble, hint of peppercorn, and crushed red florals. Framed with solid tannic structure, notes of Les Picasses 2020 were lifted with brilliant acidity. With the Gratins Nordique, its rich fruit and earth notes balanced the creamy texture and smoky flavors of the salmon and herbs. You can bet that I’ll be looking for this in the United States.
Back in California, I remained inspired by the delicious lunches and dinners enjoyed throughout the trip. To that end, I made a traditional Boeuf Bourguignon and as a side, Gratin Dauphinoise (sometimes spelled dauphinois). In full disclosure, I left the extras such as ham, smoked salmon, bacon, and more (as seen at Le Bistrot des Augustins) for another time. Please find the recipe I used HERE and make it, too-so easy. It is a perfect side dish for a dinner party, holiday gathering with friends or family, or weeknight meal. Create a fresh side salad and add protein to the Gratin Dauphinoise for a one-dish supper-you’re good to go!
A white wine for pouring perhaps? Because the gratin is such a creamy and rich taste sensation, Burgundian Chardonnay with round and buttery notes can enhance the dish’s texture or Viognier with its intense aromas may contrast the richness of the dish. But don’t forget a lovely Sauvignon Blanc with fresh citrus and herbal aromatics that can lighten the intensity of the gratin or a Brut Champagne for obvious reasons: lively bubbles and snappy acidity.
If you think I went with the above choices, think again! Because Boeuf Bourguignon was a factor, I chose 2022 Albert Bichot Mercurey 1er Cru “Champs Martin” (Domaine Adélie – $75 and sent as a sample) from Burgundy with hopes that it would complement the entire dinner and it did just that. From Mercurey, the largest appellation in the Côte Chalonnaise, the soil in Albert Bichot’s Domaine Adélie, consisting of 30-40 year old vines, is of calcareous clay with a full southern exposure. The wine was aged in oak for 12-14 months.
Depth and structure were prevalent from the first sip of the Pinot Noir to the last. On the nose I found earth, savory herbs, rosemary, crushed raspberries, cherries, and oak leading to much of the same on the balanced, round palate. Soft tannins, just-right acidity and a lingering finish helped elevate the profile of both savory beef and creamy, cheesy Gratin Dauphinoise for the win. As I write this, my mouth is watering with the unforgettable memories of the beef, gratin, and wine…
Don’t forget to add Gratin Dauphinoise to your menu choices. Let me know your add-ins and your wine pairings, too. Enjoy!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
