A week or so before my November trip to Paris and Bordeaux, I visited a Paso Robles winery, Clos Selene, owned by a French winemaking family with generational roots in Bordeaux. One of the several tips I received from those who worked there was to be sure to have canelés, the region’s signature pastry. Quickly, it was added to my “must do” list. Fast forward to a late Sunday afternoon lunch at Les Halles de Bacalan, a gourmet food market across the street from Cité du Vin where my husband and I had spent a few hours. Arranged in a perfect tier were the sought-after canelés and, of course, we had to purchase a few for dessert. Just delicious, the caramelized crust and soft, custard-like middle flavored with vanilla and the slightest hint of rum were mouthwatering!
On the following day, my husband and I entered our luxurious room at Les Sources de Caudalie, our host hotel during the duration of our Bordeaux tour, where we found a lovely welcome note next to a plate of fresh grapes and canelés. More of my new favorite indulgence! With that discovery, I did a bit of research into the history of this unique pastry.
Theories of the Origin of Canelés de Bordeaux
Many say that canelés were invented by nuns at the Couvent des Annonciades, a convent on the outskirts of Bordeaux, at some point between the 15th and 18th centuries. Nuns made these custard delights, then called cannelas or cannelons by blending egg yolks with local flours, rolling them on long sticks (cannes) then frying them in lard. Afterwards, the nuns shared these treats with poor children of Bordeaux. This theory has not been confirmed, however.
Another speculation is that canelés were devised because winemakers had too many egg yolks remaining from the winemaking process at which point egg whites were used to clarify the wine; they were needed to filter out the impurities that floated to the surface. Did the nuns use those leftover yolks? Perhaps!
Yet another hypothesis is that the vanilla and rum ingredients, produced in the Caribbean Antilles, were brought to France along with coffee, cane sugar, and pastries, such as the rum baba. In an attempt to clarify, the Conférie du Canelé de Bordeaux was created in 1985 to “officialize and regulate production of the pastry.” The second “n” was removed from its historic name, making “canelé” the official spelling to distinguish the Bordeaux version from ones elsewhere, such as in Limoges where they were also known to be made, historically.”
Make Your Own Canelés
Curious to recreate the canelés found in Bordeaux and find a wine to complement its lush flavors, I continued research. For the classic flute shape, no ordinary muffin tin is worthy – cue the special fluted tin I purchased.
Now for the execution! Egg yolks, flour, butter, salt and milk are mixed together in a specific order then left for at least 24 hours so that the flour can absorb the milk and hydrate before the baking process. Of course, vanilla and rum are added for a “kick” of flavor. After at least 24 hours, the molds needed to be coated with a combination of beeswax and butter then filled with the batter. Find the relatively easy recipe HERE. (Please note that because this is a simple recipe, the batter does not need to rest for any period of time.) However, if you are an expert baker and would like a more involved recipe, click HERE.
Delicious caneles I baked-so delicious!
Sauternes is the Perfect Wine to Complement Canelés de Bordeaux
Sauternes, the most recognizable region for sweet Bordeaux wines, is located southeast from the center of Bordeaux and towards the southern end of Graves. The area, with about 2000 hectares of vineyards, includes five communes, each with their own terroir. The small chateaux of Sauternes, Barsac, Bommes, Fragues, and Preignac produce almost 500,000 cases per year; Sauternes and Barsac produce the most wines and tend to be quite expensive.
By law, only white grapes Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, and Muscadelle may be produced in sweet Bordeaux wines. The vast majority in the blend is of thin-skinned Semillon, a difficult grape to grow. However, it’s optimal for producing sweet wine thanks to its ability to withstand attacks of botrytis. Sauvignon Blanc adds a fair amount of freshness and food friendly acidity to the sweet wines of Bordeaux. Often, a hint of Muscadelle, a grape appreciated for its floral notes, is added to the final blend.
What puts the “sweet” in Sauternes? Botrytis Cineria, also known as noble rot, is a “good” fungus that grows on ripe grapes in the vineyard when conditions are humid and warm. In this region, the fungus attacks the Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc grapes, causing them to shrivel like a raisin, resulting in a rich concentration of flavors, acidity, and sugars.
Photo showing grapes with botrytis taken at Chateau Coutet in Barsac.
It is your turn to make the canelés and start pouring! Sauternes’ bright, fresh stone fruit and citrus elements complement the caramelized exterior of the pastry and the wine’s spice and vanilla notes enhance the caneles’ soft custard interior. Bonus? Brilliant acidity with each sip laser beams through the richness of Bordeaux’ iconic pastry. In essence, the complexity and sweetness of Sauternes is in complete harmony with the palate profile of the canelé. Following are a few suggestions for pairing.
2022 Petit Guiraud Sauternes Château Guiraud (around $40) is from Château Guiraud, one of only two chateaux in Sauternes granted Premier Cru status in 1855 (the other was Chateau d’Yquem.) During our Bordeaux trip in November, we visited the Château for a fascinating tasting and tour. Currently, there are 85 hectares of vineyards of 65% Semillon and 35% Sauvignon Blanc. Grapes are hand-harvested and fermented in new French oak prior to ageing for two years. A hint of minerality, cream, and lemon, pineapple, and mango on the nose and palate were balanced, soft, and sweet. This Sauternes may be enjoyed now, but consider holding it for up to six more years.
Château Suduiraut 2011, Premier Cru Classé, Sauternes AOC Sauternes ($80), classed as a Premier Cru in 1855, is of grapes selected from the best vineyards at the estate. 93% Semillon and 7% Sauvignon Blanc were blended and aged in French oak for 20 months. With its golden color, complexity, and aromas of fruit and florals with candied confections, I also found vibrant acidity and notes of honey, vanilla, cinnamon and apricot on the rich, broad palate. The bright gold in 2011 moved to a dark, amber hue with 13 more years of ageing, but this wine could have aged even longer. The bright acidity and lush, round mouthfeel were glorious and frankly, a true indulgence.
2009 Château Coutet Sauternes ($83) from Barsac was of 75% Semillon, 23% Sauvignon, and 2% Muscadelle. Frankly, it was a pure delight during our group’s elegant lunch at the Château, deemed 1er Cru Classé in 1855. Coutet is one of the oldest estates in Sauternes and was built at the end of the 13th Century. Upon the first sip of the 2009, I noted ripe nuts and caramel leaning into smooth cream cheese and vanilla. Textured and rich, the sweetness of confections and buttercream along with notes of lime and apricot were flavor sensations. Honestly, when you find this beauty, open the bottle and enjoy now! Vinification took place in oak barrels prior to 18 months of extended oak ageing.
Savor the sweetness of authentic Bordeaux!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
