Earlier this summer, I had the opportunity to engage in a fair amount of road trippin’ through Central Italy with a wonderful group of wine journalists. Our experiences in Florence (Tuscany), Castiglione del Lago and Lake Trasimeno (Umbria) and Grottamare Hamlet (Marche) were rife with stunning views, regional history, exceptional food and welcoming people. When you’re planning a trip to Central Italy, add any or all of my favorites below to your itinerary.
In Florence, Explore The Connection of Wine and Literature Followed By High-End Tuscan Cuisine
The first afternoon our group gathered, we strolled into Florence for a fascinating learning experience about how wine and literature have blended in this beautiful city, a source of inspiration.
Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, founded by Dominican monks in the first half of the 13th century, attracted artists such as Botticelli and Michelangelo as well as poets and scholars. Giovanni Boccaccio is remembered for his tales of the Decameron that influenced Italian Renaissance literature. The Decameron tells the story of 10 young people who fled Florence in the mid-14th century due to the plague. Within the book, the word “wine” was mentioned 62 times. Referencing a villa’s cellars, the colors of wine (red was well-suited to peasants because of its digestif capabilities and white wine was elitist, light and medicinal), how wine relates to social mobility and more are just a few peeks into the wine world of the era. Now I need to re-read this book!
Basilica di Santa Maria Novella
Standing in front of the Santa Maria del Fiore, one of the largest churches in the world, we were reminded that Florence was the setting for All’s Well That Ends Well, one of William Shakespeare’s plays. Wine was available in England during Shakespeare’s time, but since it was so expensive, only the upper class could afford the cost. Yet, in the author’s book Henry IV, one of the characters “praises the benefits of sack (sherry) to one’s constitution.”
The center of Florentine politics since the 14th century is the Piazza della Signoria, our next stop. Dante Alighieri, adored Italian poet who wrote The Divine Comedy and La Vita Nuova, featured the streets of Florence in many of his works. Wine in Dante’s Divine Comedy is mentioned through “his own sensations, emotions and physical reactions.” Surprisingly, Vernaccia, the white wine of San Gimignano, is the only wine he mentions specifically.
Ponte Vecchio, the only bridge across the Arno River in Florence until 1218, was our final stop. Although not specifically wine related, we learned that Elizabeth Barrett Browning spent 15 years of her life in Florence after leaving England due to health concerns. Apparently, she fell in love with the art and culture and often mentioned the word “sublime” in expressing her feelings about the city. Clearly, others feel the same.
Ponte Vecchio
After an afternoon gelato, dinner a few hours later was held at Terraza 45 in Fiesole, a short taxi drive away from the city center to the top of the hill. Stunning vistas of Florence from the terrace provided a magical location for sunset views, photo ops and conversation – along with high-end cuisine complemented by stellar wines from I Veroni. This is a must-visit restaurant when you visit Florence, so book your reservation early.
Views from Terraza 45
When in Umbria, Boating on Lake Trasimeno, Then Dining in Castiglione del Lago Create Memories
After an enlightening tour of Madrevite with owner/winemaker Nicolo Chiucchiurlotto, our group was driven to Lake Trasimeno for another perfect afternoon. A pontoon boat was a terrific vantage point on which to enjoy cool breezes and views of Isola Maggiore with its Roman ruins, Castle Marquis Giacinto Guglielmi and wildlife. This relatively small area of about 24 hectares is inhabited by no more than 30 people. Although the threat of rain precluded our tour of the island, I’ll most assuredly return to explore.
Isola Maggiore
The night prior to our visit to Madrevite, the group dined with Nicolo Chiucchiurlotto at L’Acquario Restaurant in the historic center of Castiglione del Lago. The restaurant was a brilliant choice for tasting Umbrian cuisine. We were presented with dishes made from every sort of freshwater fish (pike, carp, tench, eel and crayfish), the famous beans from Lake Trasimeno and meat such as lamb and wild boar. The atmosphere was warm and comfortable and service was outstanding.
Entrance to L’Acquario Restaurant
A not-to-be-missed experience during the day is a meander around Castiglione del Lago and a guided tour of the Palazzo della Corgna, the Medieval Fortress. Castiglione del Lago was conquered by Etruscans and eventually, in the Middle Ages, it became a powerfully fortified village. From the 16th to 17th century, it was a duchy under the Della Corgna family after which it became the property of the Papal States. The Unification of Italy came about in 1860.
Visiting Marche? Stroll Ancient Grottamare and Savor Classic Fare at Sunset
What better way to end our trip through Central Italy than spending a day with Emmanuel De Angelis, proprietor, winemaker and sales manager at Il Conte Villa Prandone? Bonus? Along with Emmanuel and his family, our group shuttled to the sea to learn the history and to appreciate the beauty of Grottamare, an ancient town on the Adriatic coast, in the province of Ascoli Piceno in the region of Marche. Dubbed the “Pearl of the Adriatic,” Grottamare is a medieval village beloved by pianist Franz Liszt. The historic center, developed around the Peretti Square, is beautifully preserved with fortified walls dating back to the 16th century. The Priori Palace, the rooftop of the clock, the Orange Theater, the stunning Loggia, the Belvedere and the 17th century church of Santa Lucia are easy to access within this charming hamlet.
Grottamare
In Grottamare is Ristorante Borgo Antico, the setting for aperitif and dinner with the De Angelis family and Il Conte de Prandone wines. If the sunset views weren’t stunning enough, the meal was a true showstopper. We indulged in an exceptional array of wines and multiple courses that included a melt-in-your-mouth Maccheroncini di Campofilone, a typical pasta from the Piceno area with tomato sauce and tiny meatballs called “pallottine.” There is evidence that this type of pasta dates to 1400 and the recipe even now mirrors that of centuries ago.
Ristorante Borgo Antico
Start planning and create memories in Central Italy!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more about our group’s Road Trip Through Central Italy and the producers who hosted, enjoy the following articles by clicking the link provided. Grazie!
On Pasta, Family and a Road Trip to Three Stellar Wineries in Central Italy
At I Veroni in Chianti Rufina, Elegance and Balance Characterize Its Wines
When Exploring Umbria, Visit Madrevite Where Top Rated Classic Wines Thrive
