When you’re planning another visit to Italy, add the charming town of Castiglione del Lago to your itinerary. Located in central Italy in Umbria’s province of Perugia, on the southwest corner of Lake Trasimeno, Castiglione del Lago is a quick drive to Chiusi to the southwest, Arezzo to the northwest, Cortona to the north and Perugia to the southeast. With sweeping lake views and within walking distance to the Palazzo Ducale, the Medieval Fortress and small shops, the town is a destination for many who love art, culture, authentic food… and wine. Recently, our group of United States wine writers explored the area and had the opportunity to learn fascinating stories and taste the award winning wines of Madrevite with owner Nicola Chiucchiurlotto. Madrevite is a quick drive from town, too, don’t miss this!
Photo Credit: Madrevite
Madrevite
Madrevite is found in Cimbano, in the municipality of Castiglione del Lago. The area straddles Umbria and Tuscany and the property is tucked between the hills hugging Lake Trasimeno and Lake Chiusi in Tuscany, within the Colli del Trasimeno DOC zone. Viticulture dates back to Etruscan and Roman times and continues today. The configuration of the land provides a unique microclimate with mild winters, warm and breezy summers and a diurnal shift in temperatures. The soil consists of mostly clay, sand and clay mixed with pebbles and threads of limestone.
The property now known as Madrevite was founded in 2003 when Nicola decided to replant part of his grandfather’s old vineyards that dated to 1978. Prior to the restoration, the estate was not only a vineyard, but a farm of olive groves and crops of grains and legumes. Now, there are 60 hectares of land of which 11 hectares are planted to vines and 5 hectares are olive groves. The remainder is used for growing crops. Vineyards are approximately 20 years old and are at 280-350 meters above sea level. Nicola explained that production is approximately 50-60K bottles per year with 35-40% of the total exported.
“It’s essential to do what you need to do to produce a quality wine – not what people think you should do,” remarked Nicola Chiucchiurlotto. He’s passionate about organic agriculture and environmental and economic sustainability. There are no chemical herbicides or pesticides used and soil fertility is enhanced “without traumatic or artificial practices.”
Primary grapes cultivated at Madrevite are white varieties of Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto and red varieties of Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache), Sangiovese, Montepulciano and Syrah. Lest anyone ponders the existence of Gamay del Trasimeno as the same grape as that in Beaujolais, think again. “Recent ampelographic research show that Gamay del Trasimeno is the same grape that is known as Cannonau in Sardinia, Tai Rosso in Veneto, and Grenache and Garnacha respectively in France and Spain. It is believed that Gamay arrived here from Spain in the early 1600s,” wrote Nicola.
After a stroll among the vineyards and a delightful al fresco lunch with vineyard views, Nicola and our group checked out the winemaking facilities and barrel rooms to learn even more. Fermentation is spontaneous with no added yeast, skin maceration depends on the the vintage year and what is needed for the optimal result, and soft pressing along with natural clarification are priorities. Historic concrete barrels, wooden casks and French barriques are prominent along with the time-worn madrevite, a tool used by Umbrian winemakers from long ago to firmly close the barrels full of wine. Nicola explained that he chose the name “Madrevite” as an homage to past traditions and modern agricultural winemaking techniques. “I want to create a link between the two – this is the essence of my wine production.”
Wines of Madrevite
The catchy labels attract the eye with the intention of “being something you’ll recognize as from Madrevite,” remarked Nicola. I gave bonus points for each wine’s delicious food friendly profile and fortunately, our group had a two “research” opportunities to prove it.
The evening prior to our winery visit, Nicola Chiucchiurlotto met us for dinner at lovely l’Acquario Restaurant in Castiglione del Lago. Our first wine, a fresh and complex Il Reminore of Trebbiano Spoletino, hit the mark sipped alone and with hummus of white and black chick peas, olive oil and a spritz of lemon. Intense aromatics led to notes of white fruit and citrus. Paired with a light appetizer of white fish, La Bisbetica Rosé of Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache) was rich, layered and complex with bright florals on the nose along with strawberries, raspberries and drop of pink grapefruit on the palate. Following was a red wine, Opra of Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache). Expressive with red fruit aromas, lush flavors of plums, black cherries and crushed raspberries found their home on a foundation of soft tannic structure and vibrant acidity.
More wines were poured the following afternoon at lunch. Futura of Trebbiano Spoletino is a Vino Spumante di Qualita Brut Nature and produced using the Ancestral Method. Persistent bubbles were delightful as was the creamy texture, notes of white fruit and snappy acidity. We enjoyed more than a few sips with an assortment of appetizers.
A chilled glass of Elvé of Grechetto offered bright acidity and intense aromas and flavors of white fruit and herbs. The finish lingered and was a brilliant, unexpected pairing to pici pasta covered with homemade sauce prepared by Nicola’s mother.
Of Syrah was Tiulla produced in a light, easy drinking style with plenty of red fruit and subtle notes of pepper and spice. Sipped with a plate of Pecorino cheese, Toscano salami, prosciutto and shooters of legumes and croutons, my palate was more than satisfied. Our final wine was award-winning C’osa, a rich and full bodied wine of Gamay del Trasimeno (Grenache). Florals, red berries and spice on the nose led to more red fruit on the palate. Framed with moderate acidity and soft tannins, the finish lingered with additional bites of the pecorino cheese course as well as generous forkfuls of pici pasta and homemade sauce.
Grazie Nicola Chiucchiurlotto of Madrevite for a memorable experience in Umbria.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
