An Inquisitive Wine Lover Discovers Uruguay Wine

In the never-ending, fascinating journey of wine, the country of Uruguay is one to discover if you haven’t already. With a population of 3.4 million (90% of whom are descendants of Europeans) and a GDP per capita of $15,250 (the second in South America), why not live there or at least visit? Life expectancy is 78 years, the literacy rate is 98.7% (the highest in South America) and for internet geeks, access is 20.11 MG/second (#1 in Latin America). Sounds intriguing to me! And yes, there’s wine in Uruguay, the second smallest country of Latin America.

The most widely planted varietes in Uruguay include Tannat (3,892 acres/1,575 ha), Merlot (1,532 acres/620 ha), Cabernet Sauvignon (833 acres/337 ha), Cabernet Franc (534 acres/216 ha), Marselan (469 acres/190 ha), Sauvignon Blanc (327 acres/132 ha), Chardonnay (267 acres/108 ha), and Albariño (235 acres/95 ha). Area under vine is around the size of Saint Emilion AOC and a bit less than Alexander Valley in California. Perhaps you’ve had Uruguay wine – they’re exported to over 50 countries.

Uruguay is found between parallels 30 and 35 degrees South, the same strip where most of Argentina and Chile’s winegrowing regions are located. Heavily influenced by the country’s maritime climate and calcareous soils rich in clay, grapes flourish. The country’s nod to tradition includes honoring local history which affects the varieties grown and system of planting.

Climate and Soil in Uruguay

White varieties with a shorter maturation period are found closer to the coast, in vineyards from Rocha to Maldonado and through part of Canelones. In the interior from Canelones to San Jose and Colonia, red varieties with a longer growing cycle are cultivated. The sea offers an abundance of wind and rain and moderates the temperatures of most of Uruguay. For more about the five specific sectors for winegrowing in Uruguay, please click here.

 

The entire country of Uruguay is located on the Rio de La Plata craton, a mass of pre-Cambrian rock that hasn’t been affected by the continental shifts. In Maldonado, soils are formed by the erosion of gray granite that’s 2.5 billion years old and the oldest rock on earth. The soils are rich in clay with varying depth depending on their proximity to the hills. Around Montevideo, soils are deep, created by the erosion of the craton itself. There, soils are clay-based and retain less water, due to the sand content from the river. Finally, the shore of the Uruguay River, between San Jose and Colonia, has clay soils deposited by the river and calcium carbonate created by sea fossils from long ago.

Uruguay Wine

As you may expect, production is on a small scale. Most of the 180 wineries are family businesses, many of which are run by the third and fourth generation. More than 50% of the harvest is done by hand.

Many associate Tannat as the signature grape of Uruguay – and rightly so – it’s the highest in production and is the variety consumed the most by the people of the country. However, thanks to the country’s oceanic climate, white varieties are now planted more frequently. We can find sparkling white wines and lighter reds from Uruguay, too – all produced to satisfy the needs of inquisitive wine drinkers… like us.

A few weeks ago, I had the chance to sample an array of delicious, affordable Uruguay wine (sent as samples).

The white wines were a brilliant reflection of the ocean’s influence. Traversa Sauvignon Blanc 2022 ($12) was bright, citrus driven and refreshing with notes of herbs and apples. Cerro Chapeau Castel Pujol Folklore Blanco ($20) is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia. I found aromas and flavors of apricot, lemon and peach with vibrant acidity and minerality. Juanico Don Pascual Coastal White 2021, a blend of Albarino and Chardonnay, burst with salinity, white fruits and touch of bramble.

Beautifully balanced, Vina Progreso Overground Cabernet Franc 2020($26) was food friendly (think pasta with cream sauces, cheeses, even rabbit!) with nutty, green pepper and herbaceous aromas and flavors.Tannat-Merlot-Zinfandel 2020 ($23) was highly aromatic with rich black fruit, chocolate, and dark berries on the palate. Soft tannins and a lingering finish, the wine was aged for 12 months in French and American oak.

El Capricho Aguara Tannat 2018 ($55) is a limited edition from a select plot. On the nose, intense red and black berries and vanilla wafted from the glass. Flavors of nuts, cassis and rich berries were framed with soft tannic structure. Antigua Bodega Prima Donna Tannat 2018 ($23) was intense and bold from the first sip to last. Deep ruby in the glass, I noted red fruit compote, candied fruit and hint of spice on nose and palate with satin-like tannins and moderate acidity. From the coolest parcel on the winery’s estate is Garzon Single Vineyard Tannat 2020 ($29). Elegant and powerful, the 100% Tannat showed cherry, strawberry, black plum, tobacco leaf, dark chocolate and spice aromas and flavors. Full bodied with a touch of oak, the finish was lasting.

As a bonus sample, Vermut Flores Rose ($16)  is a bright and crisp vermouth from Uruguay. Its foundation is a pink Tannat with botanicals of roots, barks, herbs, fruit and florals such as rose, chamomile and elderflower. I served it with tonic water and a lime, but consider pouring a bit over ice with olives and a lemon slice for a refreshing cocktail.

The Future of Uruguay Wine

The 2000s saw a great leap forward for Uruguayan wine. New investments in the Department of Colonia, many of them related to tourism, and plantations in Maldonado, in both Garzón and Sierra de la Ballena, opened up new horizons. In addition to Bordeaux varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc, alternatives such as Albariño began to appear. Terroirs further inland also began to be explored.

Additionally, new arrivals on the scene began to make significant investments in traditional areas. In Colonia, for instance, Bodega Los Cerros de San Juan, which was originally founded in 1854, was revived, as were Narbona and Campo Tinto, while Garzón and Bodega Océanica José Ignacio in Rocha gave the local wine scene a new lease of life. These enterprises joined existing initiatives introduced by Uruguayan families such as Carrau in Cerro Chapeu on the Brazilian border and Viña Edén in Maldonado.

Other recent developments include the creation of The National Program for Sustainable Viticulture. The program promotes viticulture that respects the environment, addresses issues related to the healthcare of workers and their families, and covers vinification as well. Uruguay Wine

 

 

Still curious? Discover the website of Uruguay Wine here and pick up a bottle at your favorite wine shop.

Cheers! ~ Cindy