Late Summer Cravings: White Wines from Alentejo

Although it’s still summer, most of us, especially in the Midwest, are starting to feel the winds of change. One of those changes may be the decision to leave lighter fare and crisp wines behind and enjoy savory dishes with wines exuding a broad, rich profile. I’ve been doing just that in the last week, yet I continue to love swirls and sips of white wines on the porch, by the pool or on boat. Which whites, though, are luscious and flavorful enough to take on the end of summer?  Fortunately, I found exactly what I’ve been looking for in pours of six white wines from Alentejo, a region in Portugal, that were sent as samples.

About Alentejo

The area of Alentejo covers much of the southern half of Portugal (about 1/3 the country’s size) – only about 5% of the land is covered with vines. Considering that the country of Portugal is about the size of Indiana or Maine, the region of Alentejo isn’t vast by American standards – it’s approximately the size of Belgium.

Northern Alentejo, around the city of Portalegre and towards Spain, is mountainous and cooler than other parts of the region. Wide rolling terrain and a hot climate are found in the central portion of the region and the southern area, near the coast, offers plenty of sun for its grapes to ripen. Soils vary greatly in the region; schist, granite, limestone, and pink marble may be atop a sub-layer of water-retaining clay. From the north to the south and the east to the west, travelers may note olive groves and cork forests, sunflowers, wheat, corn, lavender fields, livestock…and wide-open spaces. I was surprised to learn that less than 5% of the Portuguese people live in the Alentejo.

Three administrative districts (Beja, Evora, and Portalegre) comprise the Vinho Regional Alentejano (VR). Within the VR, DOC Alentejo wines can be produced in eight higher classified sub-regions: Portalegre, Borba, Redondo, Vidigueira, Requengos, Moura, Evora and Granja/Amareleja and adhere to strict governmental guidelines. Many regional wines are assigned the name Vinho Regional Alentejano and are produced outside of the DOC enclaves. A wide variety of grapes, including international varieties, are allowed in wines with this designation on the label.

White Wines from Alentejo

Antão Vaz is the most important white grape in the region due to its ability to withstand the hot Alentejo climate, to be resistant to disease and drought, and to consistently produce aromatic, structured, full-bodied wines. Often bottled as a single varietal, wine lovers may note juicy tropical fruit and minerality with each sip. White grapes also cultivated in the region are Arinto with its crisp profile and minerality, Fernao Pires that produces fragrant, perfume-like aromatics, Gouveio that is highly acidic with a creamy, full-bodied palate, and Roupeiro boasting fragrance and citrus, stone fruit, and floral notes.

A wide variety of foods complement the wines from this region. Alentejo cuisine consists of seasonal and local produce, garlic, oregano, tomatoes, chick peas, and grains…along with olive oil and bread, two regional staples. The Alentejo pig (black pig) roams freely in the countryside and feeds on acorns of the cork tree and oaks. Sausage, olives, plums, mutton, goat meat, chestnuts, and cherries are just a few foods to consider.

The region’s white wines are well suited to anything from the sea, a range of poultry dishes and salads, and an assortment of cheeses. In fact, I paired a selection of whites from the region with appetizers of tuna tartare taco, buffalo mozzarella with “sundried” pineapple, morimoto fishwich of crispy black cod and white truffle aioli and rock shrimp at Morimoto in New York City not too long ago.

White Wines from Alentejo to Swirl, Sip and Savor

To satisfy your late summer cravings for a white wine with flavor and flair, consider a pour of any of these delicious wines from Alentejo.

The Esporao Reserva DOC Alentejo Portugal 2015 ($18) of Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro and Semillon glistened lemon gold in the glass and boasted enticing aromas of golden apples, dried apricots, pink grapefruit, overripe banana and minerality. On the palate, flavors of ripe citrus, grilled pineapple and toast were surrounded by mouthwatering acidity and a creamy mouthfeel. Aged for six months in stainless steel and French and American oak, I appreciated every sip… as did my guests one evening at the lake.

A later vintage, Esporao Reserva DOC Alentejo Portugal 2017 ($17) is of Antão Vaz, Arinto, Roupeiro and other white grapes in a small proportion. With colors of transparent straw and green hues, I was impressed with aromas of yellow citrus, freshly squeezed lemon, juicy grapefruit and exotic spice. The balanced palate exuded refreshing acidity and notes of vibrant orchard fruit, minerality and a creamy mouthfeel. This wine, too, was aged for six months in stainless steel and new French and American oak before bottling.

Herdade do Esporao Monte Velho White 2017 ($13) is a delicious, food friendly wine consisting of Antão Vaz, Roupeiro and Perrum varieties. Wafting from the glass were aromas of dried apricots, orange peel, lemon and white stone fruit that led to flavors of kiwi, key lime pie, ripe tropical fruits and freshly squeezed lemons. Vibrant acidity, minerality and a long aromatic finish on this lovely wine were just what I needed on a cool August night.

A blend of Roupeiro, Babo de Olveha, Antão Vaz, Tamarez, Alicante Branco and Arinto, the FitaPreta Antonio Macanita (VR) 2018 (around $15) was a lively pairing with grilled salmon one evening at dinner. Aromas of zesty lemon, fresh squeezed grapefruit, lime peel, yellow flowers, spice and sea breezes were a tantalizing entry. On the palate, notes of lemons, juicy yellow fruit, white pepper and minerality were bolstered by vibrant acidity. Minimal intervention on the part of the winemaker was practiced in order to retain the fresh fruit character of these indigenous varieties.

Of 100% Antão Vaz, the 2016 Herdade da Malhadinha Nova Antão Vaz da Peceguina ($15) was a delight. On the nose, I discovered aromas of limes, lemons, orange zest, snappy minerality and hints of petrol and smoke. The lush, balanced palate burst with mouthwatering acidity and flavors of lemon extract, vanilla bean, yellow citrus, peach cobbler and brioche.

From the terraces of Rocim Winery, it is said that you can see the tower of Beja Castle where Mariana Alcoforado, a cloistered nun, wrote to her lover; she authored the classic book “Letters of a Portuguese Nun”. This wine, Herdade do Rocim 2017 Mariana Branco White Alentejano ($15) is an acknowledgement of this local icon. Native varieties Antão Vaz, Arinto and Alvariño were blended to produce a wine boasting brilliant aromas of hyacinth, freshly squeezed lemon, spice, hint of honey and ripe citrus. The palate, with its gentle acidity and minerality, was rich and broad with notes of kiwi, lime sorbet, salinity and florals. Romantic and refreshing, this was indeed an homage to Mariana.

Cheers! ~ Cindy