This past spring, eight ladies including me spent a luxurious five days discovering nuances of Paris that are not on the typical play list. Planned one year ago, I hosted this band of Francophiles who clearly, by the end of the trip, exuded a true joie de vivre. For four full days and an evening prior to the first day, we walked almost everywhere, made a brilliant meal from beginning to end at a very special cooking class, tasted a plethora of delicacies during afternoon tea, soaked in the sunset and lights along the Seine during a five course Alain Ducasse river cruise, indulged our fashionista cravings at the Dior Museum, sipped Champagne for a full day at Ruinart, Julien Chopin, and Voirin-Jumel, flexed our olfactory muscles at a parfumerie, and shared plenty of laughter and stories that won’t be forgotten. Truly, it was a memorable week and I look forward to doing this again. (Who’s in?)
Photo Credit: Le Fumoir
After a Champagne toast at our host hotel, our group easily found the way to our first night’s dinner at Le Fumoir located at 6 rue de l’Amiral Coligny in the 1st arrondissement and across the street from the Louvre. Highly recommended by a friend who lives in Paris, we continued to chat about how perfect it was to learn more about each other with exceptional food, wine, and stunning views of the park in front of historic Church of Saint‑Germain‑l’Auxerrois. Le Fumoir offered the wow-factor I was seeking with its iconic location, impeccable service, array of intriguing menu choices, and pure French style. Others agreed. Its unpretentious vibe helped set the tone for the days to come. Now, I can’t imagine not going to Paris without making a reservation for lunch or dinner at Le Fumoir. This may be the hidden gem you are looking for, too!
Le Fumoir Offers an Unpretentious Appeal Not to be Missed
As we entered the restaurant, we were immediately greeted by the host who already had our table ready in the “Library,” a well-appointed room adjacent to the main area and boasting a wall replete with books, artifacts, and charm. Having had Champagne at the hotel, we studied the seasonal Menu du Soir curated by Chef Henrik Andersson who has successfully blended his Scandinavian influences with French inspiration. I found the prix fixe menu quite reasonable: entrée + plat or plat + dessert at 43 euros and entrée + plat + dessert at 49 euros.
Obviously, the April menu was slightly different than now (it changes weekly) and each of us was mesmerized by the mouthwatering flavors, texture, and aromas of each dish. Our amuse bouche was a simple, tastefully prepared bite of marinated artichoke with feta sprinkles and fresh chives. My entrée was a mouthwatering beef tartare followed by juicy grilled duck with a savory sauce and sides of mashed potatoes and broccoli. Dessert was a dream – a decadent chocolate torte under creamy gelato. Accolades throughout dinner were frequent!
And the wines for pairing? Thanks to my friend who is also owns a successful public relations business, our four wines were complimentary and were magnificent with the many dishes enjoyed, whether they were meat, fish, or vegetarian choices. And spoiler alert: you can find these wines in the United States.
With our amuse bouche and first course, a chilled glass of Souleil Vin de Bonte le Rose 2025 was refreshing and flavorful. From the South of France, the blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault reflected the energy of the Mediterranean (and our group!). Beautiful aromas of wild strawberries, peach, and citrus led to a palate with bright acidity and notes of juicy fruits, minerality, and breezy salinity. Cheers to that!
Refreshing Gassier Vermentino 2025 from the Cotes de Provence was poured with our entrée. Truth be told, the stylish bottle hinted at the charm in the glass and we were not disappointed! Vermentino (also called Rolle in France), was light and ethereal in the glass. On the nose, intense aromatics of white peaches and citrus blended with minerality and the slightest touch of graphite. Rich and balanced, the round palate reflected its aroma profile. A fresh finish was lingering and just delicious.
Ahhh, Madame de Beaucaillou 2023 from the Haut-Medoc in Bordeaux was an exceptional surprise since in November I visited the estate of Chateau Ducru-Beaucaillou where I had a memorable lunch in their dining room. This wine is an homage to the hospitable Madame Eugene Borie, matriarch of the Chateau. Floral aromas were intense and its bouquet of dark purple fruit was pervasive. Vibrant acidity and firm tannic structure provided the foundation of this precise wine with notes of graphite, plum, cherry, blackberries. A mouthwatering choice with the duck and vegetables, this structured blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Petit Verdot is another selection to add to the list.
Last but not least, our final wine was Chateau Malherbe Rouge 2022 paired with dessert. This intriguing blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvedre was elegant and sophisticated. In the glass, hues of deep ruby with streaks of purple were eye-catching. Complex aromas of violets, roses, fruit, spice, and wood led to exceptional notes of more fruit, spice, and purple florals that were fresh and vibrant. Satin-like tannins and moderate acidity contributed to the balance and structure of this wine. With my rich chocolate dessert, I could not have asked for a better complement.
You can count on a return visit to Le Fumoir for brunch, lunch, cocktails, or dinner – maybe all! The restaurant is open seven days a week and the lunch and dinner menu changes weekly. Make your reservation in advance HERE and know that you will be treated to a memorable dinner in my favorite city on the planet! (A heartfelt merci is in order to the team at Marianne Fabre-Lavin & Co. for providing the wines and assisting with this beautiful evening.)
Photo Credit: Le Fumoir
Cheers! ~ Cindy
