Etna Days, sponsored by the Consorzio di Tutela Dei Vini Etna DOC, was held in September 2023 in Sicily. By all accounts, it was a memorable and enlightening experience for wine journalists hailing from Switzerland, Germany, Italy, England, and the United States. It certainly was for me. Three full days in the Etna DOC included a master class to enhance our knowledge of the culture, history and wines, a walk-around tasting that served as a snapshot of the many wines and styles offered, visits to an array of wineries, and lunches and dinners of regional fare that more than satisfied our taste buds for wine and food. In essence, Etna DOC, the dominant Sicilian wine region, deserves our attention.
View of Mt. Etna from the host hotel, Picciolo Etna Golf Resort & Spa
But First, Etna DOC
Many have suggested that the area of Etna is “an island within an island” due in part to the fact that viticulture on the volcano is markedly different from the rest of Sicily. There are five different sides for viticulture – north, northeast, east, southeast and south – shaped in a semi-circle in a clockwise direction around the volcano.
Production areas cover 20 municipalities and include 133 Contrade, small production sub-zones instituted in 2011 and updated in 2022 to reflect results from recent topographical surveys. Etna boasts some of the oldest cultivated vineyards in Italy. Many are more than 100 years old and some are are free-standing.
Vineyard views at I Custodi
Thanks to the volcano’s constant activity, different volcanic soils are of pebbles, gravel, sand and chalk and are rich in complex minerals. The mountain’s elevation, 3300 meters, is the highest in Sicily. Found there are microclimates – xeric, Mediterranean, mountain and Alpine – that are unique with varying exposures, altitude, rainfall, temperature range with diurnal swings and types of volcanic soil. Due to Mt. Etna’s proximity to the Mediterranean seas, marine influence is noted. Bottom line? Wines from Etna express characteristics all their own.
Soil samples from different Conrada during our visit to Cottanera
The wines of Etna were recognized as a DOC in 1968. It was the first DOC in Sicily and among the first in all of Italy. Current production regulations admit Etna Bianco, Etna Bianco Superiore, Etna Rosato, Etna Rosso, Etna Rosso Riserva, Etna Spumante Bianco and Etna Spumante Rose. And I had sips of them all.
White Wines of Carricante and Catarratto Have Ageing Potential, Too
20 years ago, 90% of Etna DOC wines produced were red. Now, it’s almost 50/50 since the demand for white wines from the region is soaring. Carricante and Cattarrato are notable, not only for their unique profile that complements Sicilian dishes but for their uncanny ability to age and develop complex characteristics.
A comparison of wines from different vintages at Cottanera demonstrating the expressions of Carricante and Cattaratto wines that have aged.
With each sip, I found Carricante to be a mineral driven wine boasting plenty of salinity and acidity with notes of citrus, white fruit and herbs. The finish was long and zesty and some have compared Carricante to Chablis or dry Riesling.
This ancient white variety thrives on the eastern slopes of Mt. Etna in volcanic sandy soil rich in minerals. The slopes offer a cool climate and diurnal temperature shift that help the grapes develop delicate aromas and vibrant acidity. We are able to find Carricante blended with Catarratto, Minnella Bianca and Inzolia, but now, Carricante has the spotlight as a delicious single variety. Its expressive qualities make it a mouthwatering pairing with sword fish, arancini, eggplant dishes and spicy fare.
Arancini was enjoyed at all times!
Catarratto is found throughout Sicily and is its #1 planted grape as well as the second most planted white grape in all of Italy. It, too, is indigenous and is used in blends of many DOC wines. Research has shown that Catarratto has DNA links to Garganega, another important Italian grape. Clones of Cattaratto Bianco are Catarratto Bianco Comune that shows structure and Catarratto Bianco Lucido offering plenty of sapidity.
Citrus, peaches, apples, lemon, touch of honey, savory herbs and bright acidity are found in a glass of full bodied Catarratto. Its fresh, mineral like characteristics make is a luscious pairing with seafood risotto, pasta with clams, light meats, white fish, and grilled or sauteed vegetables.
Grilled eggplant, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers at lunch
White Wines from Etna DOC to Find Now
The following wines are just a few of my favorite whites of Carricante and Catarratto tasted during Etna Days in Sicily. Each is affordable and available in selected areas. Find your go-to wine and experiment with food pairings for a true taste of Etna DOC. Enjoy!
Cheers! ~ Cindy
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