Sardinia (Sardegna) is one of the two largest islands in the Mediterranean Sea, the other being Sicily. It has been populated since the Paleolithic period and has had thousands of years of occupation by the Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, those in the Byzantine Empire, Catalans and more. As a result, Sardinia boasts a blend of cultures that include an array of histories, architecture, languages and cuisine. And wine.
Ranging from simple to complex, wines from Sardinia are gaining in popularity, as well they should. Reflecting The most well-known variety is Cannonau, a red grape that may have originated in Spain because it’s similarity to Garnacha, although some studies suggest otherwise. Other red varieties include Carignano and Giro, a rare ancient variety planted near the island’s major city, Cagliari. Major white varieties cultivated in Sardinia include Vernaccia di Oristano produced on the western coast in the province of Oristano and Vermentino di Gallura DOCG located in the northeastern part of the island.
This month, the Italian Food, Wine and Travel (ItalianFWT) group, writers who thrive on all-things-Italy, have focused their research on the wines and culture of both Sardinia and Calabria. Although inspired by both regions, I was charmed by the story of Surrau “Branu” Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 2021 and a luscious food pairing, Spaghetti alle Vongole (Spaghetti and Clams).
About Vermentino from Sardinia
A beautiful dry white wine that could be considered Italy’s “hidden gem,” should be a winelover’s every night wine! According to Karen MacNeil in The Wine Bible, 3rd edition, “about 75% of all the Vermentino grown in Italy is grown in Sardinia, and no other Italian white has a flavor that quite compares.” I agree. The wine reflects the island’s arid, Mediterranean climate and well ventilated landscape with herbs such as lavender, sage, thyme, oregano and rosemary. Vermentino cultivated in the southern part of the island with its calcareous soils, tends to be rich and creamy with citrus and nutty flavors. Vermentino di Gallura is Sardinia’s only DOCG appellation and encompasses white Vermentino-based wines from an area at the northern part of the island.
It was a pleasure to taste Surrau “Branu” Vermentino di Gallura DOCG 2021 ($20) of 100% Vermentino. The Surrau Vineyards are a few kilometers from the sea in the eastern part of Gallura. The area is characterized by granite rocks “polished and shaped by wind, water and a dense but characteristic Mediterranean scrub.” Subsoils are mainly granite but sandy soils are evident. Vineyards have a southeast explore and grapes thrive in the climate and windswept hilly areas.
“Branu” comes from the Spanish word “Verano” that’s blended into the Sardinian language to mean “Spring.” Springtime in the glass this was!
From a vineyard at 100 meters above sea level with sandy and weathered granite soils, the wine was fresh and crisp. On the nose and palate I found citrus, snappy green apple, juicy white peaches, Mediterranean bramble and herbs, raw almonds, white florals, minerality and salty breeze wafting from the sea – and of course, zingy acidity. This vegan wine was aged in stainless steel tanks for 3-4 months and aged in the bottle for 1 month before release.
Vermentino
Complementing each sip was one of the easiest recipes I’ve ever made – Spaghetti alle Vongole (Spaghetti with Clams). Creamy and flavorful, the clams were a briny counterpoint to the texture and flavor of the pasta and the tart acidity and freshness of the Vermentino. Other suggestions for pairing include creamy chicken or fish dishes or all types of seafood! For the link to the recipe, click here.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more inspiration regarding Sardinia and/or Calabria, click the following links to my #ItalianFWT colleagues’ articles.
Jennifer from Vino Travels shares Antonella Corda: Mother of the Sardinian Vines
Wendy from A Day in the Life on the Farm reports about Planning a Trip to France with our Son from Germany while Sipping a Wine from Sardegna
Gwendolyn from Wine Predator shares On Italian Island Time: Vermentino and Cannonau di Sardegna with Pecorino and Fish Stew
Camilla from Culinary Cam cooks Mirto di Sardenga-Kissed Braised Ribs
Andrea from The Quirky Cork is Exploring Sardegna through Vermentino & Monica
Robin from Crushed Grape Chronicles features Monica and Fregola – a bit of Sardegna at the table
Katarina from Grapevine Adventures shares Two Authentic Expressions of Native Grapes from Calabria and Sardinia
robincgc
Andrea Lemieux
Katarina Andersson