Six Italian Rosato Wines Express the Country’s Varietal Diversity

From Piemonte to Puglia, from Veneto to Valle d’Aosta, from Sardegna to Sicilia and everywhere in between, grape growing thrives in Italy. With 20 regions and 49,908 (volume in thousands of hectolitres) of red, white and rosato wines produced each year (as of 2020), any style of wine from dry to sweet or from still to frizzante to sparkling can be found.

Perhaps you’ve heard of and appreciated a glass of Barolo, Barbaresco and Brunello di Montalcino. How about Taurasi from Campania, Franciacorta from Lombardy, Prosecco from Conegliano-Valdobbiadene or Amarone della Valpolicella? Personally, I have a special affinity for “off the beaten path” Italian wines such as Nero d’Avola, Verdicchio, Sagrantino, Trebbiano and Corvino. You can often find me with a refreshing Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon and Friulano from Friuli-Venezia-Giulia in my glass, too. The choices are endless!

But what about Italian rosato (rosé) wines? With hues in the glass ranging from onion skin or ballet slipper to a deep pomegranate, flavors are as exceptional as the red grape variety (or varieties) from which the rosato is made. In fact, there are 123 red wine grapes cultivated throughout Italy. Cannonau, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Montepulciano, Frappato, Brachetto, Nebbiolo, Nero Mascalese… I could go on and on, but you can click here for more examples.

Curious about rosé production in general? Some rosé wines are produced using Direct Pressing. Black grapes are crushed then pressed like the process in white winemaking. Little color from the skin is extracted, but it takes finesse to ensure that not too much tannin is extracted, too.

Drawing Off is a process that occurs once fermentation is under way. The juice is drawn off after 6-48 hours, depending on the amount of color desired – the color is deeper if the wine is in contact with the skins is longer. After the juice has been drawn off, fermentation continues at a cooler temperature, considered a method to retain fresh, fruity flavors.

A number of rosés are produced using the Saignée or Bleeding method. The procedure is similar to Drawing Off except that only a small amount of the juice is removed – the remainder stay in contact with the grape skins to produce a red wine. The purpose of this process is to increase the concentration of the red wine with the rosé wine as a by-product.

On occasion, a small amount of red wine is added to a white wine to produce a rosé – the process is called Blending. The European Union doesn’t allow this practice except in the Champagne region, but some inexpensive rosés from the New World are made in this manner. (I dare you to do this at home!)

 

In Italy, rosato production depends on the area’s traditional varieties and distinct climate. Earlier this year, I visited Northern Italy where I did a deep dive into Chiaretto di Bardolino. Light and dry, the style is based on the Corvina grape that is exclusive to Veneto. For my article about Chiaretto and its unique characteristics, please click here.

Just recently, I received (as samples) 5 special Italian rosato wines. Each is affordable and begs for the savvy wine lover’s undivided attention.

From the cool climes of Northeast Italy is pale pink 2021 Scaia Rondinella Rosato Veneto IGT ($15). Of 100% Rondinella, cultivated on the estate on fossil-rich limestone soil, this traditional Valpolicella grape is rarely bottled on its own. Delicate and with subtle floral notes, bright citrus and stone fruit on the nose and palate, this was an exquisite choice to sip with fresh seafood. Of note is that the Scaia project was begun by Tenuta Sant’Antonio in 2006 with a goal to create wines exuding a modern style without adhering to the rules and regulations of the country’s denomination system.

From Central Italy, is 2021 Garofoli “Kómaros” Montepulciano Rosato Marche IGT ($14), a rosato from 100% Montepulciano grapes. Considered by many to be one of the best Italian red grapes for rosato, those in this wine were cultivated in vineyards of clay soils specifically for rosato production. Vibrant acidity and rich fruit flavors with a thread of minerality were particularly luscious and a cool glass paired well with Manchego and Parmigiano cheeses. Of note is that Garofoli is the oldest family-owned winery in the Marche region. Antonio Garofoli founded the winery to satisfy the thirst of the many pilgrims traveling to the nearby city of Loreto in the late 1870s to visit the Basilica Della Santa Case. Now, the fourth and fifth generations are at the helm and the winery continues to be highly respected.

Another example of rosato from Central Italy is 2021 La Valentina Cerasuolo D’Abruzzo DOC (SRP $14) from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo variety. Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo is a unique style in that when the grapes undergo cold maceration, a portion of the juice is drawn off and fermented like white wine. (Click here for my recent article about Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, written after my return from the region.) This wine, with its intense pomegranate hue, is medium-bodied and flavorful with bright acidity. Complement a range of foods from appetizers to seafood to white meats with a light cream sauce. In particular, I loved a glass with homemade crab cakes with an aoili sauce. Of note is that La Valentina takes sustainability seriously and uses no artificial or chemical products. All estate vineyards are organically farmed or are undergoing conversion to organic viticulture.

Rosato in Southern Italy leans towards medium- to full-bodied wines with more intense aromas and flavors thanks to its hot and sunny climate. 2021 Masseria Li Veli “Torrerose” Negroamaro Rosato Salento IGT ($15) is from Li Veli, one of the “benchmark” producers in Puglia, located in the “heel of the boot.” This bold rosato with its dark pink color from Salento’s Negroamaro variety is complex with moderate acidity and rich earthy fruit notes on the palate. The wine plays well with a hearty salad, a juicy burger and everything in between. Of note is that Masseria Li Veli produces “Puglian wines from mostly native grapes naturally suited to the region’s hot and sunny Mediterranean climate.”

Likewise, 2021 Masseria Li Veli “Askos” Susumaniello Rosato Salento IGT ($23) is from another indigenous variety, Susumaniello, cultivated in Puglia. From Li Veli’s Askos line, I found it a joy to taste a wine from an ancient grape on the cusp of being recognized internationally. A copper color in the glass and notes of roses, red berries and pink peonies on the nose and palate were enticing. Balanced with the optimal amount of acidity, the rosato is an exceptional match to any seafood dish. Of note is that Askos, the name of the project, is “dedicated to the research, selection and enhancement of the heritage of native Apulian vines in danger of extinction. The wines are produced exclusively with grapes from areas with a particular vocation in which the vine is bred according to the canons of an ancient memory. The symbol is an Asko, Greek decanter of the 1^st century BC.”

Cheers! ~ Cindy

For more Grape Experiences and a free infographic “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick” click here.