Rediscover Saint Chinian – A Languedoc Treasure

Visiting the Languedoc is an adventurous discovery that takes more than a couple of days. This southern area of France is the largest wine region in the country with more than 180 million bottles produced. Red wines comprise most of the production at about 76% – whites and rosés make up the difference. For years, wines from the Languedoc were characterized by quantity as opposed to quality, but when Languedoc received its AOC status in 2007, producing high caliber wines became the priority.

Cue Session 1 of Languedoc Camp where American and British journalists and sommeliers had been invited to learn about the region and (hopefully) modify their perception of the Languedoc. Now, through my experiences there, I’ve come to realize that this is a remarkable spot in the world with both hospitable people and exceptional wines exuding energy, creativity and personality.

Our group’s first stop was a visit to the charming, historic city of Montpellier after which the trip to Assignan in Saint Chinian was characterized by rolling hills, abundant sunshine, plenty of wind, occasional views of the Mediterranean Sea and lively conversation – Languedoc Camp Session 1 was about to begin with unforgettable adventures including master classes, walks through vineyards with a geologist leading the way, pop-up vineyard tastings, food and wine pairings and more. Once the wines were poured, the treasure trove that is Saint Chinian was revealed.

In 826, Saint Chinian was the location for one of the first Benedictine abbeys, dedicated to Saint-Anian (pronounced “Sanch Inhan” in Occitan). Now, the abbey is the Hotel de Ville and boasts a glorious garden and recently restored cloister.

Saint Chinian AOP/AOC is found at the food of the Massif Central, to the west of Hérault between Béziers and Saint-Pons de Thomières. Its exposure is towards the Mediterranean Sea. To the north, scrubland provides a boundary and towards the south, Saint Chinian moves past the wine production area of Béziers. 3100 hectares of vineyards are spread across 20 villages with a total of 90 independent wineries and 8 cooperatives.

Production in Saint Chinian is 80% red wines, 15% rosés and 5% whites. Red grape varieties are Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault. Whites include Grenache Blanc, Marsanne, Roussanne, Vermentino (Rolle), Clairette, Viognier, Bourboulenc, Macabeo and Carignan Blanc. The area enjoys a Mediterranean climate with abundant sunshine, little rainfall and plenty of wind. Thanks to the protection from Mont Caroux (locals call it “the lying woman”) located in the eastern end of the Espinouse Mountains, grapes in Saint Chinian experience very little harsh weather.

A factor of utmost importance in Saint Chinian is the soil. Divided into two distinct sides, schist is found in the north and limestone is prevalent in the south.

Schist is 300 million years old and was formed during the “meeting of the continents. Geological layers were crushed, folded and turned over, giving rise to the schist terroir.” In general, wines cultivated on soils of schist tend to be dark in color with a sensation of minerality, notes of ripe and dark fruit, bold tannins and rich complexity.

Limestone is approximately 2 million years old. “Blocks of quartzite were torn from the mountain, carried by the torrents, leaving an open landscape.” Wines from limestone soils lean towards a lighter, softer profile with soft tannins, lovely acidity and bright red fruit notes. Many remarked that wines cultivated on limestone soils offered a pure varietal expression.

Your preference? Saint Chinian has what you want – the wines I tasted were of remarkable quality.

One of the many highlights I discovered in Saint Chinian is Chateau Castigno. Owned by Mark Verstraete and Tine Claeys from Belgium, this 32-hectare all-organic estate with parcels of vines ranging from 50 -150 years old, is now in its fourth vintage. The owners have rehabilitated several houses in the village of Assignan to provide places to live, relish in delicious food (they own three restaurants, one of which has a Michelin star) and relax (our group stayed four nights at their chic, eclectic hotel). For more about the property, click here.

During a visit to the Chateau, Mark Verstraete explained that their production is 70% red (some blends, some single varietals), 30% white and 10% rosé. Draft horses bring the grapes to the state-of-the-art production facility and our group was fortunate enough to witness just that. Mark explained further that he chose the Languedoc region because “it has potential. The future of wine is in the Languedoc where nothing is spoiled.”

Food-friendly were the wines from Saint Chinian. Whether paired with traditional dishes, trendy cuisine, or with a good friend, wines are those to seek for affordable, thought-provoking examples of what the future holds in the Languedoc.

Six Notable Wines to Try

Among the many exceptional wines I sipped and savored during the visit to Saint Chinian, the following selections include some of my favorites.

Domaine Castan Lou Cres Rosé Bio 2020 – From organic vineyards, 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache cultivated on limestone soil offered notes of rose petals, wild red berries, vanilla, garrigue and ripe strawberries. Simply elegant.

Domaine Boissezon Guiraud Les Treize Vents 2020 – Pale pink in the glass, fresh, elegant notes of delicate white fruit and berries from the first sip to the last were just what every camper needs in a lovely rosé.

Domaine Boissezon Guiraud Les Cerises 2020 – A bright blend of Carignan, Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault cultivated in vineyards of  schist, this wine was a delight with a charcuterie plate and on its own thanks to flavors of fresh, bright cherries and red currants leading the way.

Chateau Castigno Secret de Dieux 2015 – 40% Syrah, 40% Carignan and 20% Grenache were blended for an intense wine with aromas and flavors of black fruit, herbs, spice and earth, all on a foundation of firm tannins and vibrant acidity. Unfined and lightly filtered, this wine was a star on the table with grilled pork and lamb.

Michel Guiraud Comme à Cayenne 2020 – Beautiful Grenache grown on schist was enticing with its notes of spice, rich red fruit, toast and minerality placed gently on a soft, satin-like palate . This wine is best sipped young.

Pech Menel La Villa 2008 – A memorable blend of 40% Syrah, 40% Carignan and 20% Grenache cultivated on soil clay-limestone and some schist soils, I couldn’t get enough of this wine offering characteristics of dark fruit, hint of smoke, vibrant acidity and bold tannic structure. Pair sips with bites of your favorite cassoulet.

*Note: If you’re unable to find these specific wines from Saint Chinian, please look for other choices with similar styles and prices.

Cheers! ~ Cindy