When Christophe Baron, owner of Bionic Wines (the family of brands that includes Cayuse Vineyards, No Girls Wines, Hors Categorie Vineyards and Horsepower Vineyards), suggests a food and wine pairing, I listen.

In a previous Q&A with him (click here for the read), Baron admitted that if he wasn’t in the wine industry, he would have been a three-star Michelin star chef. “Cooking is important to me and I’m open minded about food paired with wine and vice versa. The most important factor is who you’re with, of course!” I’ll never disagree with that. Call the friends and pop the cork!

For those not familiar with Christophe Baron, his story is compelling. Baron was the first grower to plant vines in the stones of the Walla Walla Valley in the Pacific Northwest – the project is Cayuse Vineyards – and in 2002, the first to introduce biodynamic farming techniques in the Valley. Christophe Baron also produces Champagne in his vineyards located in the Marne Valley where he spent his childhood. Just as compelling as Horsepower wines (sent as samples) is his story that reflects tradition every step of the way. In 2008 he was the first vigneron in the United States to begin the efforts to cultivate vineyards using draft horses in order to bring back methods of traditional agriculture utilized by his own ancestors in their vineyards in France. For more, click here.

During our conversation prior to the writing of my Q&A, I asked Baron about his favorite food and wine pairings. He quickly recommended 2018 Horsepower Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache ($121) to complement grilled sockeye salmon. I was intrigued and had to find out for myself. But doubters, listen up! He nailed the pairing – exceptional!

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A firm lover of Grenache, Baron’s 2018 was big, bold and complex. Whole cluster fermentation was used, after which the entirety of the wine wine was stored in demi-muid barrels before bottling. The Sur Echalas Vineyard is planted in the ancient riverbed of the Walla Walla River located on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley. The topsoil is of 12-18 inches of a mix of silty loam and basalt cobblestones under which is a layer of pure compacted cobblestones, hundreds of feet deep in areas. The vineyard itself, farmed using biodynamic methods since 2009, is cultivated by Belgian and Percheron draft horses.

 

Horsepower Vineyards

Horsepower, Cayuseqm Milton Freewater,

Savory and seductive, this Grenache offered aromas of earth, peppercorn, olives, dark fruit and chalk. The lush palate, on a foundation of moderate acidity and velvet-like tannins, was complex with layers of texture and flavor. I noted orange peel, wet granite, blackberry jam and bright red fruit and the longer the wine was open, the more I discovered. Horsepower Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache 2018 was a joy to sip now… and for the next ten years.

Why did this powerhouse of an old-world style of Grenache pair so beautifully with grilled sockeye salmon? Thanks to its moderate acidity, velvet-like tannins and earthy, savory aromas and flavors, the nuances of the fresh salmon, served with jasmine rice and sweet potato puree, were not overwhelmed. For an easy recipe for grilled sockeye salmon, click here.

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Cheers! ~ Cindy

For more Grape Experiences and a free infographic “4 Keys to a Stellar Wine Pick” click here. 

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