Volcanoes, Terroir, Food, Wine and Santorini

It wasn’t difficult to imagine the sunny, wind swept island of Santorini one chilly day in Chicago. I had been invited to a presentation about the unique qualities of this Greek island and delicious lunch with Ted Diamantis of Diamond Wine Importers and members of the wine media and press at GT Prime Steakhouse. Authentic, natural foods and magnificent limited-production wines from Santorini evoked plenty of “oohs” and “ahhhs” from the group. If truth be told, I was ready to book the next flight to Santorini and ponder the distinctive volcanic terroir while indulging in food and wine at a beachside trattoria!

 

The island of Santorini enjoys a Mediterranean climate of abundant sunshine, warm temperatures, low rainfall and high humidity during the grape-growing season. Strong winds from the oceans are constant threats to vines that are trained low to the ground for protection. In fact, vintners have developed a unique pruning method: “koulora”. Vines, remaining close to the ground, form a spiral that creates a natural basket to protect the grapes from the powerful wind. On sloping vineyards, “pezoules” (stone terraces) are built so that rainwater is absorbed. All pruning and harvesting are done by hand on the island.

Through the years, erupting volcanoes have formed a soil bed of lava, volcanic ash and stone. As a result, vines are low-yielding with a resistance to disease such as phylloxera. Dry farming, whereby the vines are not artificially irrigated, is practiced; hydration is from sea mist and natural humidity.

Flourishing on the island of Santorini is the Assyrtiko grape with its snappy acidity, extraordinary minerality, and ability to age for years. Whether enjoyed as a single varietal or blended with indigenous grapes Athiri (lending aromatics) or Aidani (offering delicate structure), Assyrtiko is mouthwatering from the first sip to the last.

As I chatted with friends holding a glass of refreshing Santo Sparkling, I was surprised to learn that this wine is the first bubbly version of Assyrtiko produced by a winery of Santorini. Using the méthode traditionnelle of production (the same as Champagne), this sparkling wine exuded aromas and flavors of white peaches and honey highlighted by a round mouthfeel, brilliant acidity and persistent mousse.

Our starter courses included a wedge salad with iceberg lettuce, Maytag bleu cheese, cherry tomatoes and bacon and a caper-fava plate featuring Fava Santorinis from PDO Santorini, Santorini caper leaves and capers. This unique deliciousness was paired with Santorini Assyrtiko 2017, a classic example of 100% Assyrtiko. Dry and acidic with notes of citrus, honey, smoke and sea breeze, the wine paired just as effectively with the starters as it always does with fish and other seafood dishes.

“Santorini Fava” is a “Protected Designation of Origin” product that comes from the plant “Lathyrus Clymenum L.” that has grown exclusively in Santorini for more than 3500 years. The traditional method of production, which includes drying under the sun and aging, results in a velvety texture and slightly sweet taste. Wild caper is a bush born in the steep slopes of Santorini caldera and the volcanic stone-built walls between the vineyards of the island. From the wild capers, the flowers and leaves are collected. Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, the spicy flavor is a welcome addition to salads, sandwiches, pizza, and more. Union of Santorini Cooperatives

Our next course was luscious. Plates of braised Colorado lamb shank with saffron cavatelli, baby vegetables, chimichurri and tomato paste from Tomataki Santorinis PDO Santorina and Gnocchi Genovese with basil pesto and cherry tomato were placed on the table. Served family style, sides included shishito and corn with parmesan sauce, lime and paprika and brussel sprouts with maple butter, casellas prosciutto and long peppercorn.

The two full bodied wines for pairing were brilliant choices. Santorini Aspa 2015 was a blend of 75% Assyrtiko, 15% Athiri and 10% Aidani. Aromas of flowers, green apples, and pears led to dry, crisp flavors of more fruit and florals with a hint of oak due to its aging for three months in oak barrels. Our next pour was of Santorini Assyrtiko Grande Reserve 2016, a wine of 100% Assyrtiko fermented in oak barrels for 12 months, then in the bottle for the same amount of time. From 100-year-old vines, notes of dried nuts, honey, vanilla, lemon tea and toast on both nose and palate were absolutely stunning, as were the variety’s signature elements of minerality and acidity.

A sweet finale, a generous slice of decadent chocolate layer cake of chocolate mousse, vanilla Chantilly, malt ice cream, brick tuile and warm chocolate sauce was paired with Santorini Vinsanto 2011, a naturally sweet white wine from sun-dried Assyrtiko and Aidani grapes. Deep orange-red in color, aromas of cinnamon, cloves, raisins, and dried apricots were gloriously intense. Having spent three years in oak barrels, honey and lemon flavors were mellow and bolstered by zesty acidity. Just incredible.

Kudos to the vintners and farmers who offer wine and food lovers distinctive products from Santorini. I can’t wait to visit this intriguing Greek island for more.

Yamas! ~ Cindy