All You Need is Love (and Champagne)

Surely, you (like me) are reading a plethora of suggestions of what to pour with dinner at the romantic end (or is it the romantic beginning?) of Valentine’s Day. From a myriad of bubbles to a variety of white and red wines to dessert wines with a range of sweetness, all are welcome choices. In fairness, though, all I need this Valentine’s Day are lots of love and a beautiful bottle (or two) of champagne. That is all.

Champagne! Located about 90 miles northeast of Paris, at the northernmost zone for vine cultivation, continental and oceanic influences abound in Champagne.  Often, debilitating winter frosts, vast amount of sunshine in the summer, cool temperatures, and consistent rainfall are elements that affect each harvest. Hillside homes and underground cellars dot the landscape in the four main growing regions: Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne, Côte des Blancs, and Côte des Bar. With a limited availability of land (at an extremely high price, by the way), there is no space left for additional grape growing. Of the approximately 20,000 land owners, 5000 produce their own estate wines; the majority produce Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay grapes that are sold to large Champagne houses.  Yields are decided upon prior to harvest in order to focus on excellence, not volume.  Champagne growers are focused on consistency of quality and style through blending grapes, plots, and villages.

 

Champagne (the real deal is from the region of Champagne) expresses elements that every romantic moment needs: classic good taste with a bit of surprise, persistence (the bubbles, remember?), and a magnificent ending. A classic Brut style of champagne is always a perfect choice and according to the Champagne Bureau, “U.S. consumers have had an insatiable thirst for Rosé Champagne”.  Enticed? Pop the cork from one of the following wines (all sent as samples) and make this Valentine’s Day one you’ll always remember.

Laurent-Perrier “La Cuvée” Brut ($50) was launched in 2017 and promises to be as iconic as the producer’s other offerings. Enjoyed on New Year’s Eve (as research, of course!) this champagne was refreshing and pure with elements of elegance from the first sip to the lingering finish. A blend of 55% Chardonnay, 35% Pinot Noir, and 10% Meunier, Laurent-Perrier “La Cuvée” Brut offered the tiniest of bubbles that framed aromas of white flowers and juicy citrus as well as notes of stone fruit and ripe peaches on the palate.

 In early December, I was honored to have lunch with Alice Paillard, daughter of Bruno Paillard, owner of one of the most forward-thinking Champagne houses in the region. For my article about our lunch and conversation regarding their production and iconic wines of Champagne Bruno Paillard, please click here.

Our first pour was of the Première Cuvée ($50), Bruno Paillard’s flagship wine (60% of the production) that’s a prime example of elegance, harmony, and balance. From grapes sourced from over 30 Crus in the region, beautiful aromas of citrus, tropical fruit, and gentle raspberry and red currant notes led to flavors of much of the same, as well as almonds, toast, and the slightest hints of black fruit and figs.

The Rosé Première Cuvée ($60) was a brilliant surprise in the glass and on the palate. Bright, vivacious, and flavorful, this delicate champagne is of both white wine and red wine of Pinot Noir. The white is from a quick press and separation of the skins and the red is obtained by long maceration of the juice on the skin. Pure and dry, aromas and tastes of red currants, cherries, strawberries, and violets were absolutely joyful and I noted strength and power mid-palate.

André Jacquart Rosé de Saignée Experience Brut Nature NV Premier Cru ($58.99) is a true grower champagne from a House, created in 1958, now represented by Marie Doyard, a fifth-generation family member who has run the estate since 2004. A blend of 80% Pinot Noir from a small parcel within the Vertus Premier Cru and 20% Chardonnay from Le Mesnil sur Oger Grand Cru, I was mesmerized by the aromas and palate profile of this wine fermented Burgundy barrels. The Pinot Noir spent 24-48 hours on the skins before the saignée process (removing the juice from skin contact) then spent at least 3 years on the lees. This beautiful example of a Rosé Champagne burst with aromas and flavors of tart, juicy strawberries, cherries, hints of smoke and spice, toast, and brilliant acidity. And those bubbles!

You already have the love. Just don’t forget the champagne that’s only from Champagne!

Cheers! ~ Cindy