A Compelling Introduction to Organic Etna DOC Wine from Sicily’s Palmento Costanzo

Nothing says “ahhhhh” like a fire in the fireplace, a luscious glass of wine… and Italian fare. From antipasti to ziti (and everything in between), Italian wine and food give me never-ending bliss. A few weeks ago, on a freezing winter evening in Chicago, I attended an intimate food and wine pairing dinner at Tocco Restaurant with representatives from Sicily’s Palmento Costanzo, a winery owned by the Costanzo family and located near Mount Etna, the largest volcano in Europe. That night, I found joy and fascination in each sip of exquisite wines and delight in the conversation with those who help produce them.

For a few special hours, warmth and camaraderie were at the forefront thanks to the authentic food from Tocco and exceptional wines produced by Palmento Costanzo. Appreciative guests were introduced to this family winery that focuses entirely on the production of high quality, organic Etna DOC wines, each of which exhibits the unique biodiversity of the region. (Click here for more information about the Etna DOC wine region.)

 

On the slopes of Mount Etna in Sicily, Palmento Costanzo stands over an historic landscape. Located in Contrada Santo Spirito in the town of Passopisciaro, to the north of Mount Etna, grapes have been cultivated here for centuries. Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Carricante, and Catarratto are grown organically and are harvested by hand. With over one hundred terraced slopes rising from 600-800 metres, the vines, some more than a century old, are supported on wooden trellises surrounding the ancient winery. The vineyard as been brought back to life in a meticulous and sensitive restoration based on the principles of bioarchitecture. This is our home, where our Etna DOC wines are born – a heartfelt expression of the largest volcano in Europe. Palmento Costanzo

Founded in 2011 by Mimmo and Valeria Costanzo, the family farms approximately ten hectares of vineyards organically. Vines, on a series of ancient terraces made from dry lava stones found in the area, are planted in nutrient-rich, brown volcanic sands from the degradation of lava deposits.

But what is a “palmento”? In the past, a palmento was a cellar where grapes were crushed then processed to make wine and where the wine was stored. Traditionally, the palmento consisted of several rooms on various levels in order to use gravity that allows the must to flow into large tanks where it is subsequently fermented.

The restoration of the old palmento and wine production area, however, occurred in the mid-1800s and again in 2009. Renovation was undertaken with principles of bioarchecture in mind. The purpose was to not only respect the land but to pay homage to the traditional vinification process (implementing gravity to assist in the winemaking) found on Mount Etna. Currently in use at Palmento Costanzo are barrique, tonneaux, and large French oak vats of 3000-5000 litres as well as four 2000 liter French oak eggs. The complete winemaking process takes place inside the ancient palmento.

Although I’ve never visited Palmento Costanzo, I felt as if I was in close proximity to its unique qualities with each glorious sip.

Upon arrival, we were poured a glass of Mofete Bianco 2017, that paired just as effectively with greetings and heartfelt conversation as it did with the first course of Tartar Vegetariana, a light and flavorful mélange of diced tomatoes and hearts of palm layered with an avocado cream. A blend of 70% Carricante and 30% Catarratto from 5 – 30 year-old vines, I noted aromas and flavors of yellow flowers, ripe citrus, minerality, and the slightest hint of balsamic leading to a lingering finish. This refreshing wine was aged in stainless steel tanks for 6 months.  Mofete Bianco is Palmento Costanzo’s largest produced wine.

Proving yet again that a bright and lively rosé can be enjoyed any time of the year, our group was offered the Mofete Rosato 2017 as a complement to our second course of Polip, grilled octopus served over creamy burrata. The Rosato, of 100% Nerello Mascalese from 5 – 30 year-old vines, exhibited a moderate amount of intensity on both the nose and palate and offered notes of red flowers, red fruits, wild herbs, violets, and minerality that tempered the slight pepper and spice notes of the savory octopus and complemented the texture of the burrata. Macerated on the skins for 24 hours, malolactic fermentation occurred in stainless steel tanks; the wine was aged for 7 months in stainless steel.

When the Risotto, carnaroli rice sautéed with white wine, was presented, the Bianco Di Sei 2017 was poured. This beautiful blend of 70% Carricante and 30% Catarratto from 30 – 120 year-old vines was aged for 6 months in stainless steel tanks and 6 months in the bottle. Elegant and sophisticated, this rich, broad wine from ancient vines presented notes, on both nose and palate, of white flowers, sage, eucalyptus, and citrus. Fresh with a persistent finish, the harmony of textures in both wine and risotto was sublime.

As the Mofete Rosso 2015 was poured, I anticipated the next course for pairing: a flavorful spinach and ricotta tortelli in a truffle cream sauce. A guest commented that “red wines give you a good idea of the soil of Mount Etna”; this wine of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio from 5 – 30 year- old vines was a prime example of that remark. Aged for 12 months in stainless steel tanks and 1/3 in tonneaux, then 6 months in the bottle, I noted plenty of spice, herbs, roses, and hints of volcanic ash on the nose. My palate was in Sicilian heaven (yes, I’m beginning to thank that’s a place) with food friendly acidity, integrated tannins, and elements of juicy red fruit, spice, and minerality that were both balanced and elegant.

As a comparison, the Nero di Sei 2014 is of 80% Nerello Mascalese and 20% Nerello Cappuccio from 30 – 120 year-old vines. It was fermented in truncated cone-shaped French oak barrels and aged in French oak barrels for 24 months, then 12 months in the bottle. Rounding out one of the best food and wine pairing dinners I’ve experienced in a while, the graceful profile of the Nero di Sei offered ripe fruit, minerality and smoke, subtle notes of almonds on a foundation of vibrant acidity and satin-like tannic structure. Each sip, paired with Arrostino di Vitello, veal stuffed with prosciutto and herbs in a white wine sauce served with potato puree, was notable.

During dessert, with espresso and a selection of imported Italian cheeses, I realized that the superb Palmento Costanzo wines I tasted that night and the fascinating people with whom I conversed were a compelling introduction to this special winery in Sicily. I look forward to learning more… one sip at a time.

Cheers! ~ Cindy