Breaking Rules – Dave Phinney’s Locations Wine

Winemaker extraordinaire Dave Phinney is all about breaking rules for the sake of freedom. Whether this philosophy applies to every aspect of his life, I’m not sure…but I do know that it pertains to his project, Locations Wine.

The story goes like this… While at Charles DeGaulle airport after the 2010 harvest, Dave Phinney, who began his brilliant wine journey in 1997 (remember Orin Swift wines?), shared with a friend his frustration in producing outstanding wine in France due to existing regulations. He laughingly imagined the possibilities of creating wine if there were no rules and “how fun it would be to blend across appellations and travel the country to find great growers with old vines while experiencing the culture and the people.”

As they said “au revoir” to each other, Phinney noted the unique “F” sticker on the license plate of a taxi as it pulled up to the curb. A revelation occurred:  should he borrow the taxi idea and use letters to create a wine label indicating a specific country? Could he craft a variety of wines in the major wine regions of the world while working with the best of the best vineyard owner, growers, and winemakers. Most importantly, could these wines honor their countries “without compromise and without boundaries”?

Dave Phinney was about to break some rules with an ambitious undertaking. The Locations Wine project began.

“Our love of wine recognizes the nuances of time and place that combine and interact to represent location. These Locations exist individually within appellations of the new and old world, but are seldom combined across appellation, in the art of blending due to laws and restrictions that make it near impossible to express true winemaking freedom. The questions is – do you break the and thousands of years of history and tradition, in pursuit of expressing freedom? We believe so.”  Dave Phinney, Proprietor and Winemaker, Locations Wine

Inspired by “a true representation and sense of place”, Dave Phinney and team at Locations Wine attend to detail, a crucial element of the project, while spending as much hands-on time as possible in the vineyard. The goal is to make an unsurpassed blend by choosing fruit from some of the finest wine regions in various parts of a country. Hold on! Rules? What rules??

Recently, I was sent six sample bottles of Locations Wine, each around the $20 range, an un-heard of price for the quality I experienced. The following wines are examples of why breaking the rules is often the right (and best) choice.

F4 – French Red Wine – Dave Phinney found a network of growers from the Rhone, Roussillon, and Bordeaux to create a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and assorted Bordeaux varietals. From “some exceptional old vine blocks located in revered sub-appellations”, F4 breaks the rules. Wild strawberry, ripe raspberries, roses, tangy spice, black pepper, and tobacco were intense and enticing to the nose. The first sip (of many) presented a burst of cranberries, vanilla and a hint of savory notes woven with bright acidity and gentle tannins. Prepare your favorite roast chicken recipe and pair with this deliciousness.

AR5 – Argentinian Red Wine – From the Uco Valley in Mendoza is this brilliant blend of Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. On the nose, I discovered intense notes of fresh red fruit, lavender, hint of earth, and tobacco. Flavors of spice, dark cherries, overripe raspberries and vanilla were bolstered by lively acidity and silky tannins. I was led down the path to a gracious, lasting finish that reminded me of Bordeaux…but with a distinct Argentinian flair.

E4 – Spanish Red Wine – Ahhh, this wine was a liquid reminder of one of my favorite countries, Spain. The blend of Garnacha, Tempranillo, Monastrell, and Carinena from low yielding vines in the regions of Priorat, Jumilla, Toro, Rioja, and Ribera del Duero is creative and delicious. I loved the aromas of vanilla, light herbs (oregano, chives…), tobacco, and a bit of tingle on the nose. The palate boasted bright acidity, defined tannins, vanilla, and lip smacking plums, cherries, and black raspberries. The round mouthfeel and complex finish made this wine a natural for pairing with tapas: cheese and jamon croquettes, stuffed olives, herbed goat cheese on toast, or empanadas filled with meat.

OR4 – Oregon Red Wine – Juicy and delicious, this 100% Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley is a wine any Pinot Noir lover will relish. From grapes grown on hilltop slopes with volcanic soil, a “gentle production phase and long, cool fermentation” helped produce a wine that presented aromas of ripe cherries and raspberries with a touch of exotic spice and oak. On the palate, fresh acidity and medium tannins were ever so balanced with notes of roses, cherries, pomegranates and strawberries. Elements of herbs and forest floor added depth; the beautiful, broad finish of OR4 was a true treat.

CA4 – California Red Wine – I’m sure you’re familiar with these notable wine appellations in California: Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino, and the Sierra Foothills. The Locations team scoured the area for prime fruit…and their creativity was unleashed. This unique blend of Petite Sirah, Barbera, Tempranillo, Syrah, and Grenache boasted rich and bold aromas of deep red fruit, vanilla, blueberries, blackberries, hint of cherries, and white pepper. On the palate, bold, integrated tannins, tangy, lip-smacking acidity, jammy fruit, earth, spice and minerality were balanced with plenty of structure. The lengthy finish boasted notes of savory herbs…just wow.

W4 – Washington Red Wine – W4 is the first wine from the northwest and what a wine it is. Syrah, Merlot, and Petit Sirah are from “diverse vineyard blocks within the state’s best growing regions”. Bursting from the glass were intense aromas of rich fruit compote, spice, and…a bit of zing. And the flavors? I found juicy blueberries and plums, chocolate, lavender, forest floor, and oak. With food friendly acidity and satin-like tannins, this complex wine from Washington may be a new favorite.

Congratulations, Dave Phinney. Cheers to breaking the rules! ~ Cindy