Wine and Dine: Carmenère and Just About Anything

For the majority of winelovers, deciding to open a bottle of wine is easy…and so are the choices. Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, or a red blend are options many, if not most, consider on a regular basis. In the last few weeks, though, I’ve decided to expand my horizons (and with this article, perhaps, yours, too). To that end, I’ve swirled, sipped, and savored more than a few bottles of Carmenère (the two selections reviewed below were sent to me as samples) and explored a variety of foods for pairing.

About Carmenère

The history of Carmenère is just as interesting as its palate profile. Originally thought to have been planted in Bordeaux vineyards by the Romans, it was one of the older grape varietals used to produce exceptional wines from that region. When phylloxera attacked French vineyards in the mid to late 19^th century, Carmenère vines were ravaged. After the epidemic, it wasn’t replanted due to the facts that it was low yielding, had difficulty flowering, and was vulnerable to mildew.

Today, when we think of Carmenère, we equate it with the signature grape of Chile, a country that boasts the world’s largest plantings of the variety with over 10,000 hectares. In 1850, cuttings of Carmenère were brought from Bordeaux to Chile; these cuttings were thought to have been Merlot and growers actually called the grape “Merlot Peumal”, after the Peumo Valley in Chile. Thankfully, in 1994, the mistake was discovered and corrected – all along, the “Merlot” grapes were in fact, Carmenère. By 1998, the Chilean government recognized Carmenère as a specific variety and winelovers now celebrate International Carmenère Day on November 24.

Many agree that Carmenère fares better in the warm Mediterranean climate and lengthy growing season of Chile than it ever did in Bordeaux. The largest sub-region for plantings of Carmenère is the arid Colchagua Valley where Pacific Ocean breezes cool the land and rivers and occasional rainfall revitalizes the terroir. Hillside sites are somewhat cooler than those in the valley and a more dramatic diurnal temperature shift results in grapes with lush ripe flavors and mouthwatering acidity.

How does Carmenère taste?

The two wines I received as samples were from Hacienda Araucano, just outside the small village of Lolol in the Lolol Valley, a sub-region of Colchagua Valley. Both are outstanding examples of Carmenère done right. One is a 100% Carmenère with classic rustic notes and one includes Carmenère in a sophisticated, elegant blend. I encourage you to click here to learn fascinating details about the philosophy of this organic and biodynamic winery.

Araucano Alka 2014 ($55) is 100% Carmenère, hand harvested from vineyards in Apalta, with its high terraces of alluvions from the Tinguiririca River, and Lolol, with soils of granite from the coastal range terroir. I discovered bold notes of lush, ripe blackberries, baking spices, black pepper, mint, and oak on the nose and palate. This balanced wine was on a steady foundation of firm tannins and vibrant acidity that helped provide a lingering, textured finish. Truly, this was stunning.

Araucano Clos de Lolol 2013 ($17) is a refined blend of 55% Syrah, 18% Carmenère, 18% Cabernet Franc, and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon grapes cultivated at estate vineyards of clay-limestone and stony soils at Lolol, then hand harvested. Aromas and flavors of spice, white pepper, red fruit, blueberries, leather, and mint were balanced, complex, and elegant. Velvet-like tannins and bright acidity provided a strong backbone to this wine that offered a persistent finish and a promise to deliver luscious notes with each sip.

Foods to Pair with Carmenère

Because of the powerful attributes of a 100% Carmenère or the sophistication of a blend, food choices are varied. Memorable pairings may include smoked, grilled, or roasted meats, wild game in a red wine sauce, barbecued ribs, chicken dishes, pork chops, rack of lamb with herbs, chili, herbed vegetables, spicy curry, strong, hard cheeses and anything with bacon (you’re welcome). The two wines I enjoyed paired exceptionally well with a warm roasted vegetable and herbed ricotta sandwich on a fresh baguette. The Alka 2014 was a rich, savory complement to the flavors of the roasted vegetables, yet sips of the Clos de Lolol 2013, with its softer notes, were smooth and lovely with the herbed ricotta.

Cheers to Carmenère! ~ Cindy