Italy’s Top Bottles Take the New York Stage at Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri 2026

“Life is too short to drink bad wine”. Truer words were never spoken! When I walked into the massive Metropolitan Pavilion in New York City on a rainy day in March, and saw the list of producers in attendance, I knew this wasn’t something I’d have to worry about, at least not today. The entire space was filled to the brim with wine producers from every fathomable region of Italy, but only those that had the privilege of receiving the Tre Bicchieri designation.

For the uninitiated, Gambero Rosso, a global authority on Italian wine, food, travel and culture, rates over 45,000 wines annually on a scale of one to three glasses (bicchieri). Less than 1% typically achieve the Tre Bicchieri designation, a ranking reserved for only the best wines from each vintage. Gambero Rosso is also probably best known in the United States as the publisher of the annual guide to Italian wines, the Vini d’Italia. Grab a copy if you can! It is the most extensive encyclopedia of Italian wines I have ever seen, and if you don’t believe me, here’s a peek –

I was given some sage advice on how to approach the mammoth task of picking the wineries, so as to not go overboard, but I confess, I followed very little of it. I journeyed from Trentino Alto Adige in the northeast to Abruzzo in the middle, via Tuscany and ended up in Calabria. I even stopped by Sicily before journeying back up to Franciacorta (a little sparkling for the road, you see!). In addition to bringing a stellar collection of wine producers under one roof, these events also hold masterclasses, usually led by an industry expert that are focused on a specific style of wine, region, etc. The masterclass I attended opened my eyes to the incredibly varied potential of wines made in Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, but more on that later.

Understandably, I tried many, many wines; so here are some of the highlights from Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri 2026.

Elena Walch – This winery is run entirely by women and is from the Trentino Alto Adige region of Italy. Elena Walch was the first woman in Alto Adige, if not in all of Italy, to insist that her name appear on the labels of the bottles, especially since she was the one making the wines. She was, and continues to be, quite the pioneer in winemaking in Italy and is probably best known for her multi award-winning Gewürtztraminer, which has won many awards. Her daughters are at the helm now, even though she remains involved in the day-to-day.

Of the three wines at the tasting, my absolute favorite was the Elena Walch Gewürtztraminer 2023. I could have been in Alsace! What an incredibly well-made wine. Very pleasant and fresh, with a crisp acidity that balanced the slight hint of sweetness well. Quite light on the palate, with notes of stone and tropical fruits and a refreshing minerality, I confess I even got a nutty aftertaste. Some Gewürtztraminers can feel a bit oily and heavy, but this one had a clean, linear finish. The wine is so versatile that it can be paired with a variety of foods, most notably cuisines with a good bit of spice, but equally, oyster Rockefeller, roasted chicken and maybe a schnitzel or two!

The other wine that stood out was the Elena Walch Lagrein 2024. A very dark, inky red wine, with bold tannins and a sparkling acidity – this wine packed a punch. It certainly requires some robust food to go with it, most notably, steak, grilled lamb chops, osso buco, some really bold saucy dishes, but feel free to drink it on its own, if you must. It has good aging potential and even though the 2024 was very drinkable now, I’d put it away for 3-5 years at the very least, to enjoy its full potential.

G.D. Vajra – Truly one of the best wineries in the Piemonte (aka Piedmont) region of Italy, G.D. Vajra produces some of the best Barolos in the world. I once had the distinct privilege of attending a tasting conducted by Giuseppe Vajra, and what a joy it was to learn about the wines directly from him.

I tried all three wines, but the one that really spoke to me was the Kyè Langhe Freisa 2023. I mean no disrespect to the two, absolutely stunning Barolos, but to see a rare grape variety being revived in this way gave me hope about the future of wine in this very uncertain world! I think this quote from the founders of the Vajra winery perfectly sums up this wine: “Kyè®: the sun or the moon? To us, this is the seduction of Freisa, an ancient local grape that is distinctive, fierce and untamable.” (Milena and Aldo Vaira). The wine is similar to a Nebbiolo, yet it has its distinctive characteristics, which make it that much more appealing to the consumer (imagine a Langhe Nebbiolo, with more punch and personality, and you have a Freisa). Much more affordable and easy drinking, I will definitely be stocking up on this wine.

Caiarossa – Probably my favorite stop of the day, Caiarossa was a revelation! All three wines on display were fantastic, and so varied. The winery is located in Riparbella, just outside the appellation of Bolgheri in Tuscany, and they produce approx. 105,000 bottles a year. In 2004, the owners of the prestigious Château Giscours (Margaux, Bordeaux), acquired the estate, which is situated very close to the Mediterranean Sea. Seven different grape varieties are grown here – Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Grenache, Syrah and Sangiovese.

All three wines were blends, with varying degrees of these varietals. Pergolaia 2020, a blend of mostly Sangiovese, with a bit of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot thrown in, was a stunning start. It was beautiful, with fresh red fruits, an elegant mouthfeel, smooth tannins, and a pleasant, lingering aftertaste. The wine ages for approx. 12 months in wooden casks, which lends a certain robustness, but does not overpower the wine in any way. The Pergolaia would pair excellently with food (think spicy meat pizza or a pappardelle with wild boar ragu) and is a very good representation of the versatility of the Sangiovese grape.

Caiarossa 2020, a blend of all seven grapes, was a bit intimidating at first, but with a good tannic structure, moderate acidity and relative youthfulness, it took me by surprise. It takes a very skilled winemaker to make such a well-balanced wine with grapes that are known to produce wines with a certain level of gravitas, depth and complexity. This couldn’t have been an easy feat to accomplish, but give this wine another 10 years and it will taste as good as an aged Bordeaux, for half the price.

My favorite however, was the Aria di Caiarossa 2020, a blend of mostly Cabernet Franc and Syrah, with a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot thrown in for good measure. The high altitude and variety of terroir lend a certain elegance and finesse to this wine, not easily accomplished when you have such prominant Bordeaux varietals making up a good chunk of the blend. In a blind tasting, I would have pegged this as a Bordeaux from Saint Emilion…enough said!

Librandi – Another stunner, Librandi is a winery located in Calabria. I tried two wines from this estate: the Gravello 2023 (60% Gaglioppo, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) and the Duca Sanfelice (100% Gaglioppo).

Gaglioppo, not known to most, is now a popular grape variety in Calabria, and happens to be a child grape of Sangiovese and a sibling to Sicily’s Nerello Mascalese. It is quite rare and grows primarily in the southern region of Italy. “We are very fond of its fancy name, evoking complexity and gravity on one hand while suggesting lightness and spontaneity on the other: a link between two opposites that best represents our wine-making philosophy”, is what the winery has to say about Gravello. Both wines are age worthy and can be cellared for at least 10 years.

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo – I’d be doing you all a disservice, dear readers, if I did not share my insights about the extraordinary lineup of 11 wines from the Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo region at the masterclass. The variety of styles and complexity of the wines produced here was truly an eye opener for me and five of them really left a mark. All 11 wines were made from 100% Montepulciano grapes but had very diverse aromas and tastes.

Don Armando 2023, from Lidia e Amato, was probably my favorite, mostly because it felt like I was drinking a red, masquerading as a rosé. On the nose, tertiary aromas of earth, mushrooms, wet leaves, truffles jumped right at you, slowly evolving into bold red fruit aromas. This suggests some age on the wine, even though it is just a 2023. The metallic notes and bold minerality only enhanced the tasting experience. The wine is quite fresh and savory and is an excellent expression of its terroir. Pair this with duck, chicken cacciatore, roasted vegetables, light pork dishes, hard cheeses, pasta, and so much more!

Tenuta Ulisse 2023 was a total opposite. More fruity, light, fresh, notes of rhubarb, red cherry, strawberry, gave it the feeling of a light Provence rosé, with good ageing potential. Giusi 2024 from Tenuta Terraviva was more vegetal, while still showing notes of red fruits. The sparkling acidity and mild tannins added to the character of the wine. There was a bitter orange marmalade aftertaste, which I quite liked. Carta Bianca Chiaroscuro 2024 from Pescara Vini had so much going on, but in a well-balanced way. With notes of rose, lychee, blood orange, herbs, and sweet tropical fruits, this wine is a good candidate for pairing with food. On the palate, rose and lychee dominated, with a sparkling acidity, and a vibrant, fresh appeal. It could pair with oysters, ceviche, sushi, sashimi, scallops, lightly grilled fish, and even chicken. Maybe throw in a nice, hearty bouillabaisse and this wine would stand its ground.

Last but not the least, the Agricosimo Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC 2025 was the smoothest of the lot, with ripe red fruits, metallic notes, stony minerality, some candied sweetness on the palate and a nutty aftertaste. This wine would pair fantastically with meats and hard cheeses.

Villa Franciacorta – No Italian wine tasting is truly complete without Franciacorta from Lombardy, so my last stop was Villa Franciacorta. The winery is an ancient 16^th century cellar built into the hills and located in Monticelli Brusati, near Brescia. It has been run by the Bianchi family since 1960, and the third generation of winemakers attended the event.

The three wines on show were all vintage sparkling wines and made in the traditional “methode champenoise”: Mon Satèn 2020 (100% Chardonnay), Emozione 2020 (85% Chardonnay, 10% Pinot Noir, 5% Pinot Blanc) and a sparkling rosé, Bokè 2021 (50% Chardonnay, 50% Pinot Noir). The brother duo were happily pouring generous pours of their last few bottles, and I confess, the Emozione was probably my favorite. The cool climate of this area clearly leant a crisp, sparkling acidity, with rich stone fruit aromas, a hint of nuttiness, piercing minerality, ending with a silky smoothness on the palate. These wines could truly compete with some of the best Champagnes. All three of the vintage Franciacortas were a work of art and could easily pair with a variety of foods, from oysters, ceviches, and crudos, to grilled branzino, sea bass, duck confit, roast chicken, and even some hard cheeses.