When many plan their wine travel destinations, the most popular locations are often placed at the top of the list. In California for example, Napa Valley, Sonoma County, Santa Barbara, Paso Robles, and Santa Ynez wine regions are highly lauded. But wait. Thanks to a recent virtual wine education event hosted by Andrea Robinson MS and attended by a number of wine colleagues and winemakers a few weeks ago, another spot is worth your attention and certainly a visit. Where? Red Hills AVA in Lake County, California is producing wines that are pure expressions of the area’s unique characteristics.
red hills ava
Red Hills AVA is Influenced by its Volcanic Past
Just north of the Red Hills AVA in the northern Mayacamas Mountains, is the peak of Mt. Konocti that last erupted about 11,000 years ago. As a result, the terrain of the AVA is a reflection of that activity with earth of black obsidian, quartz crystals, and volcanic gravel. Iron rich, the soil is shockingly red in color, inspiring the name Red Hills.
A plethora of volcanic hills ranging from 1350 to over 3700 feet above sea level are higher than any other in Lake County. This is significant in that the increased exposure to UV light impacts the thickness of the grape skins and overall grape health. Most of Red Hills AVA’s acreage under vine is planted at or over 2000 feet and overall, there are 32,215 acres.
Temperatures are usually a few degrees warmer during the day than other Lake County appellations. In the afternoon and evening, rapid cooling of vineyards along the ridges and low humidity allow for optimal acid retention during the ripening stage. Varietals that flourish within the Red Hills AVA include Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot, and Petite Sirah.
Meet Selected Vintners of Red Hills AVA
During the guided tasting, vintners were present to share insights about each wine sent as samples. Representing two wines from Beckstoffer Vineyards, were Jesse Giacomelli and Kirk Venge who highlighted the importance of elevation and soils of the Red Hills AVA. Peter Molnar of Obsidian Wine Co. shared his thoughts about the climate and geological conditions and Keith Emerson of atLarge discussed farming strategies that enhance the quality of the fruit. All mentioned more than a few times how important terroir, elevation and diverse expressions in the wines of Red Hills AVA are in each sip.
Four Expressive and Unique Wines of Cabernet Sauvignon from Red Hills AVA
Finely textured, 2023 Beckstoffer Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is a “concept wine” that was sent as a sample for media and clients only and is not for sale. Jesse Giacomelli, winemaker, explained that fruit is from 29 year old vines in Block 1B of the Amber Knolls Vineyard. Soils are obsidian-rich, well drained loam on a moderate slope with excellent exposure to the sun. Thanks to wild sage and other herbs on the property, I found intense savory aromas and earthy spice notes in the wines as well as integrated tannic structure, bright acidity, and a round mouthfeel. This wine was aged for 17 months in French oak then bottled and unfiltered.
Amber Knolls Vineyard – Photo Credit: Red Hills AVA Lake County
From Crimson Ridge Vineyard, Beckstoffer’s highest at between 1810-2510 feet above sea level, 2023 Crimson Veil, Beckstoffer Crimson Ridge Vineyard, Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Hills Lake County ($80) was produced under the expertise of Kirk Venge, consulting winemaker. During the tasting, Venge discussed the challenges faced in the region, particularly regarding trunk disease and sun overexposure. Grapes in this exceptional wine were cultivated during a near perfect growing season. I found glorious aromas of dark fruit such as plums and blackberries, baking spice, and even tapenade. Full bodied, flavors of bramble, rich fruit compote, chocolate and hint of cola were on a foundation of complex tannic structure and just-right acidity. This intense, age-worthy wine deserves a place in the cellar and in the glass.
2022 Obsidian Wine Co. “Half Mile” Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) is a lush blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, then Petit Verdot, and Petite Sirah. Obsidian Ridge Vineyard, planted in 1999, is on a volcanic flow at the northern tip of the Mayacamas Range at around 2700 feet in elevation. Winemaker Peter Molnar explained that “ultraviolet exposure is 10% greater than vineyards at sea level. This contributes to developing small grapes with dark color, thick skins, and intense flavors.” Cabernet Sauvignon is cultivated in three elevation zones, each offering differing characteristics. Further, Cabernet Sauvignon from Obsidian Wine Co. are the only Cabernets in California (and perhaps the world) that are aged in 100% Hungarian oak barrels from a forest in Tokaj grown in volcanic soils. Such a noteworthy wine, 2022 “Half Mile” Cabernet Sauvignon is exotic, powerful wine that is a reflection of terroir. Rich aromas of red fruit and spice led to a palate with vibrant acidity and silky tannins. Its lingering finish is one to remember.
Obsidian Ridge – Photo Credit: Red Hills AVA Lake County
Keith Emerson, winemaker, shared his insights about 2022 atLarge Cabernet Sauvignon ($80) from Crimson Ridge block 3D and Amber Knolls Vineyard West block 1C. “This is a different block from our first wine tasted today. 1C is of rocks and obsidian with an elevation of 2115-2295 feet.” This area is “allows for consistentcy in acidity, but we must keep the tannins in check.” Emerson utilizes innovative farming strategies including tunnel leafing and frequent irrigation, sometimes three times per week. Only 248 cases were produced of this wine that was aged in 60% new and 40% once used French oak barrels for 20 months. Rich and vibrant on both nose and palate, I discovered juicy blackberries, cherries, violets, and subtle notes of espresso. Satin like tannins and bright acidity framed this fresh, energetic wine that was absolutely remarkable.
Explore the volcanic wines of Red Hills AVA when you’re ready to try something deliciously unique. Planning a visit, too? Trust me, your palate will thank you.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
