There’s just something about sparkling wines from Italy. As much as I crave a glass of Champagne (always!), Cremant from anywhere in France, Cava, Franciacorta, Moscato d’Asti, Lambrusco, or Brachetto d’Acqui, I’ll never turn it down. Quite the list!
Just a few weeks ago, I participated in a virtual tasting and learning experience with Umberto Cosmo, one of the owners of Bellenda located in Conegliano Valdobbiadene found in the province of Treviso, 40 minutes north of Venice. Their heart and soul are focused on Prosecco sparkling wines. Skilled winemakers with their roots in the region produce “different interpretations of bubbles, different styles, different versions of wines that are foamy, fizzy, or full sparkling, with or without sediment, classic method or Charmat method.” Clearly, I was in the right place at the right time!
Photo Credit: Wine Folly
Bellenda was founded in 1986 by the family patriarch and his sons; 8 generations have lived in the region. “This is the area where Prosecco was born. This is the past in the bottle,” stated Umberto Cosmo. “Now it’s a key area for sparkling wine.” He reminded our group of journalists that the grape for Prosecco, Glera, originated in Istria then was brought to the Collio region in northeast Italy. In the 1700s when those from Venice settled in the hills of Treviso, the Glera grape found its “perfect place.” Since the grape is sensitive to cold, the area is protected from winds sweeping down from the Dolomites-there is a continuous flow of air between day and night. Wide diurnal shifts help maintain freshness in the wines.
Umberto Cosmo – Photo Credit: Bellenda
Bellenda produces sparkling wine from Prosecco DOC to Conegliano Valdobbiadene. What’s more is that the family “accepts challenges that come their way, researches at all times, and is never content with the status quo.” In fact, Umberto made it clear that at Bellenda, breaking the norm happens on a regular basis.
With 15 municipalities scattered throughout the appellation of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, viticulture and enology have been evident since ancient times. Bellenda is committed to preserving the environment with a variety of strategies for sustainability. There are no weed killers, pruned canes are collected for use as energy sources, woodlands surround many vineyards for biodiversity. Bottles are from recycled glass, solar energy is a priority, heat pumps and natural gas are utilized for heating internal spaces, and more.
Photo Credit: Vivino
After tasting four wines, I understood the meaning of Umberto Cosmo’s words. Naturally elegant, wines expressed the notes of the Glera grape in harmony with the land and specific winemaking style. “The idea is to produce a style of wine like 200 years ago but with modern knowledge,” stated Umberto.
“We face challenges every year with Con Alti IGT Trevigiani 2023 Pet Nat,” remarked Umberto. “This is the wine that we use as an experiment for other wines. We drink with friends, have with cheeses and cold cuts. We sit on the porch and enjoy the view.” Unfined, unfiltered and produced with minimal intervention, fermentation is stopped in the bottle so there is no secondary fermentation; it is produced in the pet-nat style. Because of the lack of a second fermentation, natural yeast sediment results in a subtle haze. I found dry, snappy notes with bright fruit, apples, pears, rosemary, yellow florals and precise bubbles. 500-600 cases, depending on the year, are produced of this mostly Glera blend. Umberto also explained that the pet-nat style is very common in the area-families would make this at home. Cost is $14-16.
Fratelli Cosmo Prosecco DOC Extra Dry sports a beautiful label designed by an Australian artist. The name pays homage to the Cosmo brothers-fratelli means brothers in Italian. Incredibly fragrant, this Prosecco is from the “finest vineyards in the zone of Cordignano, Sarmeded, and Cappella Maggiore in the hills of Treviso.” Lighter in body, I thoroughly loved aromas of brioche, orchard fruit, juicy peaches, lavender flowers, and refreshing, crisp flavors of lemon and lime. With a lingering finish, this full bodied and balanced wine is one I will sip anyt ime, any day! Considered “affordable luxury” by Umberto, cost is a mere $14-16.
Named after the country church next to the vineyards where grapes are cultivated is San Fermo Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Brut. As the first wine produced by Bellenda, “this wine is the most important,” according to Umberto. “We return to tradition. 60% woodlands surround the vineyard and people live there.” Glera grapes are grown in the Conegliano hills with morainic hills from glaciers, refermented and matured for several months in steel then in the bottle. Elegant and fresh, minerality was focused on the nose as well as lemons, stone fruit, and chalk. On the round, full-bodied palate, vibrant acidity, salinity, more minerality and snappy fruit led to a lingering finish of persistent bubbles. Cost is $22-24.
Our last example of Bellenda’s sparkling wine was Sei Uno Conegliano Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore DOCG Rive di Carpesica Extra Brut. Sei Uno indicated the birth year of Umberto Cosmo – 1961. Not produced in the Pet Nat or Charmat Method style, Sei Uni is one of three Metodo Classico style wines, whereby the second fermentation is in the bottle (like Champagne). “This wine has more expression of the soil whereas charmat offers the details of the grape,” suggested Umberto. In this wine, soils are of limestone clay soils rich in morainic deposits from the ancient Piave glacier. Bright, rich aromas of apples, mint leaves and herbs, flavors of citrus, golden apple, and nuts were lifted by racy acidity. Enjoy as an apertivo or throughout the meal for a glorious taste of Bellenda. Cost is $28-30.
Four sparkling wines. Four styles. One notable winery, Bellenda, should be kept on your must-visit list in northern Italy.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
