One of my most memorable international wine trips resulted in a newfound love for the white wines of Collio. Just recently, I had the opportunity to indulge in a vertical tasting of wines, Collio Bianco “Broy,” from Eugenio Collavini Viticoltori, an outstanding winery located in the region. The six wines, from the same parcel yet from different vintages, are a mineral driven, refreshing blend of Friulano, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon.
The name “Broy” is an homage to broili, the ancient Friulian kitchen and gardens that are an important facet of the Collavini family’s agricultural roots. Broili is the “little piece of land behind the house and is fenced by bushes. This is the first place my great grandfather Eugenio started making wine. It is a generational legacy,” stated Luigi Collavini, current owner and sales director of Collavini, who led our tasting. But first.
Photo Credit: Eugenio Collavini Viticultore
Where is Collio?
Tucked into the far northeast corner of Italy, the region of Collio is a curve of bright and sunny hills, slopes and terraces within the province of Friuli Venezia Giulia on the border of Slovenia and between the Julian Alps and the Adriatic Sea. To the north is the town of Prepotto, to the west is Cormons and in the east is Gorizia.
Collio enjoys a mild climate with summers that are hot but not stifling and winters that are cold and often rainy. Dramatic diurnal temperature shifts and local winds create a unique micro-climate. Thanks to the warm currents from the Adriatic Sea, grapes are kept dry and the mountains to the north protect the region from cold winds. The unique soil, termed Ponca, consists of layered marl and sandstone that offer elements of minerality and salinity to the wines. Not surprisingly, grapevines thrive in this natural environment. Excerpt from “At Eugenio Collavini Viticoltori in Collio DOC, Tasting is a Personal Experience”
Eugenio Collavini Viticoltori has a Storied Family History
In 1896 Eugenio Collavini began the wine business of the same name when he supplied wine to stores and the noble families in Udine. Luigi explained that Eugenio’s son, Giovanni, “guided the winery through the first two world wars, although wine production was halted due to the need for food in order to support the family.” Manlio, Giovanni’s son, assumed the helm of the winery post World War II. “He picked up wine production and expanded it to the international scene, thanks to exports and innovations.”
Located in Corno di Rosazzo, in the Collio and Colli Orientali DOC appellation, the distinctive location impacts the wines produced at Eugenio Collavini. Hugging the border of Slovenia where slopes are steep, “we’re surrounded by mountains and the sea. North winds give acidity and minerality to the wines and south winds give size, sugar, volume and alcohol,” stated Luigi. “Balance, elegance and drinkability are key components. Wines must taste like Friuli and wines must taste like the grape. Balance is the answer,” he continued.
Photo Credit: Eugenio Collavini Viticultore
Vertical Tasting of Six Wines-Collavini Broy Bianco DOC Collio
In wines from the Broy parcel, Friulano and Chardonnay grapes dry partially in special rooms at a controlled temperature of 53 degrees F/12 degrees C, with almost zero humidity. Sauvignon is pressed separately after a brief maceration and then chilled to block its fermentation.
It was a joy to discover the evolution of each wine as it relates to the aspects of nature. Luigi Collavini shared that “a common thread that clearly illustrates nature’s impact on wine is that nearly all of the selected vintages originate from years in which, due to occasionally adverse weather conditions, the vines produced a lower quantity of grapes-maximizing concentration in the few clusters available.”
Expressive and lush, Broy Bianco DOC Collio 2011 is from a vintage year when temperatures were above the seasonal average. Cool and humid weather in the summer was punctuated by a brief periods of searing heat in early July. By the second half of August the weather became warm and dry and was absent of significant rainfall. On the nose of the 2011, I found notes of dried apricots, nuts, almonds and yellow flowers. Its rich and savory palate offered vibrant acidity, herbs, dried leaves and a moderate finish. Unique and delicious.
March 2013 was cold and rainy, followed by average temperatures until May. A mostly hot and dry summer preceded a cooler, wetter period with mild temperatures during harvest. Harvest was delayed 7-10 days and production declined due to the spring conditions. Characteristics of Broy Bianco DOC Collio 2013 reflect these conditions. According to Luigi, wines possessed good concentration and sugar levels. Broy 2013 presented aromas of tropical fruit, peach jam, and a hint of confections. Structured on the palate with savory notes, the finish burst with minerality which I love.
Because the spring of 2017 was warmer than average, bud break occurred 10 days earlier than the norm. On April 21, a widespread frost reduced yields followed by a very hot summer, yet regular rainfall fell to help prevent water stress. Finally, late August offered cooler temperatures and the resulting diurnal temperature shifts enhanced the grape’s aromatic profile. Broy Bianco DOC Collio 2017 is exceptional with its bouquet of honey, rose petals, white flowers and lemon. Boasting plenty of body and moderate acidity, this textured wine was tart and bold with a round mouthfeel and persistent finish.
Broy Bianco DOC Collio 2018 is from a vintage year expressing perfect weather conditions. Although the winter was rainy, it was not extremely cold; spring was warmer than the norm and April was dry. Frequent rainfall was present during the warm summer. All of these conditions allowed the grapes to remain on the vine until they were fully ripe. Fresh and lovely, intense florals of ripe apricot and tropical fruits burst from the glass. On the palate, I noted lemon curd, tropical fruits, juicy peaches and minerality followed by a lingering, satisfying finish.
Luigi explained that the frost between April 7 and 8, 2021 did not cause significant damage to the vineyards. A cold spring was followed by summer then harvest with a shift between warmth and coolness but lacking of extreme weather conditions. Broy Bianco DOC Collio 2021 shows slightly lower acidity yet high aromatic intensity. On the nose, lovely aromas of yellow tropical fruits, wildflowers, straw, and spice led to a structured, balanced palate with signature minerality, freshness and an uncanny ability to pair with food.
2022 vintage year was characterized by low rainfall, slightly higher temperatures, a dry spring, and drought-like conditions in the summer. These early-season temperatures resulted in a higher than average number of berries per cluster. I expect Broy Bianco DOC Collio 2022 to evolve to a higher level of excellence, but it’s delicious now. Beautiful aromas of ripe and juicy peaches, hint of pears, and baking spices led to a rounded palate showing aspects of fresh fruit, minerality and acidity.
The Collavini team expressed that “some vintages evolved with similar characteristics, while others developed more unique traits.” Surely, this is the essence of understanding the influence of nature in the vineyards.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
