There is nothing like worldwide travel with wine as a focus. You’re visiting Portugal, Spain, France, Croatia, Greece and other countries known for their outstanding wine? Enjoy every minute, take photographs and notes, then find the wines (or those similar) once you return home. But don’t forget to set aside quality time to take a breather from wine-centric activities. Get to know the people who live in these areas, indulge in local foods, and visit historical sites that have helped shape the region’s culture. Go beyond the vines!
A few weeks ago, I spent a few days in Tuscany where, between superior wine experiences, our group had the opportunity to explore. Bookmark the spots described below and enhance your Tuscan adventure with a visit to each.
Carne Diem at Officina della Bistecca with Dario Cecchini
For a joyous dinner with sides of antics and theatrics, make your way to Panzano in the Chianti region where Officina della Bistecca and its owner, eighth generation Italian butcher, Dario Cecchini are waiting. Cecchini gained fame in 2001 when the EU banned the sale of all beef on the bone from cows that are more than one year old; he “staged a widely publicized mock funeral for Bistecca.” Through the years, he is a fervent believer in the ancient art and poetry of butchery whereby the whole animal is respected by using every part, from nose to tail. With his wife, Dario Cecchini own and operate not only his historic butcher shop but three adjoining restaurants: Panzanese (grilled Panzanese steak), Solocciccia (braising, boiling, grilling, using lesser known cuts), and Officina della Bistecca.
Carne Diem!
As we walked up the stairs from the shop to Officina della Bistecca, the energy in the room was electric. Laughter and conversation amongst locals and international visitors alike and the aromas and sounds of beef sizzling on the grill set the stage. We sat at the end of a communal table with soon to be new friends from France and our host, Vecchie Terre di Montefili winemaker Serena Gusmeri, who brought two bottles of her wines that were brilliant pairings throughout the evening.
Each of the three restaurants offers one menu and a single seating-12:30pm for lunch and 7:30pm for dinner. The cost is 50 euros (children under 10 and those over 90 years of age are half price) and includes Tuscan bread, a special salt, vegetables for dipping in extra virgin olive oil, water, and (unlimited amounts of) red wine on the table. Five courses of beef are served along with Tuscan beans, baked potatos and Chianti “butter.” And don’t forget the dessert with grappa! You’re vegetarian? There is a 5 course menu you’ll love, too. Another bonus? If you’d like to bring your own wine, there is no corkage fee. This is a not-to-be-missed experience.
Relax and Reflect at Abbazia di San Michele Arcangelo Monastero di Badia
Step back into history and re-center yourself with a visit to the Abbey of San Michele Arcangelo a Passignano, a monastery of the Vallombrosan Congregation. Located in the Chianti hills, in the area of Badia a Passignano in the municipality of Barberino Tavarnelle, this is a perfect place to relax and reflect.
At the Abbey, Benedictine monks engage in prayer, work, and study. These are considered “inseparable aspects of monastic life, which complement each other in the daily rhythm of the hours divided so as to live a life according to the Benedictine pillars established for each community.”
Our group had a reserved guided tour led by one of the English speaking Benedictine monks. It included a tour of the church of San Michele with its stunning artwork, the chapter house, the cloister area, the refectory with Domenico Ghirlandaio’s stunning “The Last Supper,” the time-worn kitchen, and the well manicured Italian garden with rabbits, geese, and florals holding court. Peace.
Cook with Simone Acquarelli at saQua in Montescudaio
If the array of Italian foods are as mouthwatering and unforgettable to you as those we had during our stay, why not learn how to actually make a few dishes? At saQua, under the tutelage of popular Chef Simone Acquarelli in Montescudaio, our group donned aprons and made delicious Spinach and Ricotta Ravioli followed by Tiramisu for the win!
With experiences in Michelin starred restaurants in Italy and elsewhere in Europe, Acquarelli and his partner Sara Buti created saQua after his success at Il Frantoio in Montescudaio. At saQua, “his philosophy of contemporary, direct, and authentic cuisine, built on ideas and creative freedom combined with taste, attention to raw materials and the territory” rings true.
Our cooking experience was no exception-we learned, worked like champs, laughed, then satiated our palates with the results of our efforts during lunch. Of course, a few pours of wine from Caiarossa enhanced every bite, too.
Create the Scents of Place at Source Adage in Riparbella
There is something quite special when a slight breeze flows in Tuscany. The aromas of the Mediterranean scrub and florals coupled with the salinity of the sea are uniquely savory and refreshing. Why not attempt to recreate the “scents of place” at Source Adage in the small seaside village of Riparbella? Cue our group!
Owners Christopher Draghi and Robert Dobay, founders of Source Adage, began their journey in Hudson, New York in 2015. Following their success in the United States, the duo decided to return to Italy where they were inspired to create their first fragrance. Now, their new home has a slogan “Born in New York. reMade in Italy” that reflects their “reenvisioning of the brand.” Home fragrances and eau de parfums are available to purchase, yet visitors are able to create their own.
With clear instructions from Christopher and Robert, trays, beakers, and samples for whiffing, each of us crafted a room fragrance that, in my case, will always remind me of Tuscany. My spray was a choice of different amounts of bay leaf and rosemary (top notes that quickly evaporate), pink pepper and black currant (heart notes with moderate evaporation), and hint of cedar (base note that evaporates slowly). Truly, this is a memory that I revisit every day.
Creating the scents of place in Tuscany
RipaWine in Riparbella is Dedicated to Local Flavors
Our last evening was a vibrant immersion into the people, food, music, art, and yes, wine, at RipaWine, an annual festival along the main street of Riparbella to celebrate its territory and culture. We attended the first night and truth be told, every family from infants to the elderly were present, too. In essence, this was a perfect way to wrap up a few days in Tuscany thanks to the authenticity of family and friends leaning into the beauty of wine, food, and camaraderie.
At RipaWine, representatives from each of nine wineries in Riparbella poured in a thematic square that provided a comfortable atomosphere. We were invited by those at Caiarossa where their table was nestled among traditional hay bales for seating and their wines were poured to an incredible number of delighted wine lovers! Booths with traditional and creative food offerings (riparbellina soup, zonzellone, mixed grills, pork knuckles, boiled beans, Nonna’s lasagna, and more!) were lined along the main street and over 500 seats scattered throughout the spaces along the street were welcome respites for many. Face painting, games and entertainment enticed children while parents tasted wine and food. Of course, music with a bevy of bands from acoustic jazz to blues, to DJ spun pop songs, and regional Tuscan tunes were in the background and yes, there was plenty of dancing.
Each year in July, RipaWine is planned. It’s a perfect time to discover Tuscany beyond the vines.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
