Having indulged in the culture of Florence, Italy for a week and spent a day exploring notable wineries in the countryside a couple of years ago, it was my goal to travel there again. Just a few weeks ago, I had the chance to revisit Tuscany. I shared a couple of brilliant, sunflower-filled days there with two wine writers, Allison Levine (Please the Palate) and Brianne Cohen (Sommspirations), along with our host, Alice Bertacco of AB Communicazione. What I discovered were not only beautifully crafted wines from Vecchie Terre di Montefili and Caiarossa, but the intriguing stories of the landscape and people who made what’s in the glass exceptional.
Allison Levine, Serena Gusmeri, Brianne Cohen, Cindy Rynning at Vecchie Terre di Montefili
Meet Serena Gusmeri, Winemaker and Agronomist, of Vecchie Terre di Montefili
My first encounter with the lovely and gregarious Serena Gusmeri was at dinner at the infamous Antica Macelleria Cecchini by Dario Cecchini in Panzano. Serena graciously brought two outstanding bottles of Montefili wine to pair with multiple courses of beef and sides of joyous theatrical presentations (more about this experience in a future article). Chianti Classico DOCG of Sangiovese offered juicy fruit notes, nuts, cherries, and flint while the Bruno di Rocca of Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese, expressed dark fruit, leather, green mint and power. These wines, incredible complements to the dinner, proved to be an enticing entry to what followed the following day.
Hailing from Brescia in Lombardy, living in nature was always Serena’s passion. Oenology, too, became her life’s work with education at the University of Verona, a master’s degree in Milan, and a stint in Australia where she penned her thesis. Serena then spent time in Franciacorta where sparkling wines became her signature; she then moved to Campania and surrounds where her skills were honed further. With these experiences and a deep nod to her zeal for nature and the ecosystem, she knew that the expression of each grape depends on the lack of manipulation in the vineyard. Sustainability and biodiversity are at her core.
In 2015, Serena Gusmeri joined the team at Vecchie Terre di Montefili. Three American owners, Nicola Marzovilla, Frank Bynum and Tom Peck Jr, who continue to appreciate all that Italy has to offer, also knew that she would be the optimal choice to elevate the brand from the vineyard to the glass. And when Serena walked the land, she, too, knew that this was where she was meant to be. In fact, she is the only woman winemaker of 26 wineries in Panzano.
In 2022, Montefili earned the Diversity Ark certification that recognizes ecosystem-first farming by restricting herbicides and plastic use in soils. With agronomists and botanists, Montefili runs multi-year scientific projects including soil, flora, and microfauna sampling to “nurture and enhance the vineyard ecosystem.”
Since 2018, Serena has been at the helm of a zone-based terroir mapping project whereby soil types are identified after which Sangiovese are vinified separately “to let each terroir express itself fully.”
Serena is a fervent believer in the annual improvement of biodiversity strategies at Montefili in order to increase the estate’s resilience to drought, disease, and climate stress.
Wine Experiences at Vecchie Terre di Montefili
The following morning began with a visit to Vecchie Terre di Montefili, about 15 miles from Panzano at the top of the Monte Fili hill in Greve. For over 20 years, it has been part of Panzano, Italy’s first organic district, and Montefioralle, two Chianti Classico UGA (Additional Geographic Unit). As we turned off the main road onto the winding lane to the winery, large cypress trees offered a warm greeting; the trees are also the logo of Vecchie Terre di Montefili.
The property covers 12.5 hectares on a combination of galestro and alberese soils. The vineyards surround the estate that is at 480-550 meters above sea level; oldest vineyards were planted in 1975. Its location is one of the highest areas of Sangiovese in Chianti Classico and the location’s microclimate, with dramatic diurnal shifts, help produce wines with concentration and vibrant acidity.
Currently, production is approximately 38K bottles per year; 70% is exported with 30% remaining in Italy. During our walk through the barrel room, Serena explained that she considers each hectare as a wine on its own and spontaneous fermentations, as well as long aging in medium and large barrels, provide the foundation.
After admiring the magnificent landscape, Serena led us into the intimate tasting room for a vertical of Anfiteatro of 100% Sangiovese. Montefili’s first Sangiovese vineyard was named Anfiteatro in 1975 and more plantings were added thanks to Serena Gusmani and the new owners.
Anfiteatro 2013, produced by the prior winemaker, was aged in tonneau and bottled in 2016. I found just-right acidity and savory notes of stewed prunes with spice and deep red fruit compote. Serena’s first vintage of Anfiteatro 2015 offered notes of dried florals, herbs, sweet tobacco, firm tannic structure and high acidity with plenty of body. Power and richness prevailed in her first of many successes. Anfifeatro 2017 seemed more sophisticated and soft than the previous wines. Notes of sweet tobacco, herbs, spice and red fruit on a platform of moderate acidity and tannins were elegant and notable. With the ability to age 30 years, Anfiteatro 2019, from a sterling vintage year,showed soft aromas of florals and herbs while the palate was fruit forward and savory; gentle tannins and moderate acidity led to a satisfying finish. To be released at “en primeur” in September is Anfiteatro 2020. Serena admitted that the wine is still young and can evolve in the bottle further – I could taste the potential, however.
This experience was enlightening and reminded me yet again that the characteristics of the vintage year are of paramount importance to the end result. Other crucial elements? The winemaking process and winemaker’s style, of course.
A fitting finale to our day at Montefili was a light lunch served alfresco. Montefili Chardonnay was a lip-smacking beginning to the meal and sipped with cheeses and two different types of creamy soups, the acidity and citrus notes were alive and energetic. Poured to complement an array of fresh salads were Vigna Nel Bosco, Sangiovese showing notes of ripe cherries, baking spice and hint of dried apricots ,and Vigna Vecchia, Sangiovese with savory elements of white pepper, earth, bramble and dried rose petals. Full-bodied Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG was an elegant Sangiovese boasting a palate profile of anise, chocolate covered cherries, and roasted meat. Incredible.
With a range of wines including Chardonnay, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Franc, any palate will be satisfied with selections from Vecchie Terre di Montefili , no matter the occasion. Wines of Vecchie Terre di Montefili have received worldwide acclaim and rightly so. Serena Gusmeri proves that a “scientifically informed, ethically driven approach to recognizing biodiversity “as a living network” is one of the most important components of what is in the bottle.
Planning a trip to Tuscany? Add the winery to the top of your list so that you, too, can taste the expression of the land along with Serena Gusmeri’s expertise.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
