Nature and People Radiate the Energy of Caiarossa in Tuscany

A few weeks ago, wine journalists Allison Levine of Please the Palate, Brianne Cohen of Sommspiration, and I joined Alice Bertacco of AB Comunicazione for a visit to Tuscany where we indulged in wine, food, and truly memorable experiences. Specifically, we visited two special wineries:  Vecchi Terre di Montefili and Caiarossa where we discovered unique terroir and fascinating people. Since my return to the United States, I’ve been sharing my stories, seeking wines from each and inspiring others to visit there, too.

Small and stunning, Caiarossa is tucked on a southwestern slope of a hill that overlooks the Tyrhhenian Sea. It is located near a medieval Tuscan village, Riparbella, and the Mediterranean maquis where dense evergreen scrubs thrive. When Eric Albada Jeigersman sought an Italian winery to complement his historic Chateau Giscours estate in Bordeaux’ Margaux appellation ,  he was mesmerized by the “beauty, richness, and energy” of Tuscany. Immediately, Jeigersman was inspired by the potential of Caiarossa and he purchased the estate in 2004.

A Visit to Caiarossa, Where Nature Exudes Vitality

With an array of soil types and altitudes ranging from 120 meters to 350 meters above sea level (a.s.l.), fruit from each individual parcel plays well with the others to create elegant, balanced, textured wines. Currently, the area totals 100 hectares with 40 hectares under vine; those hectares are divided into 59 plots on which 10 varieties are thrive, thanks in part to varying climatic conditions. The balance of the property is home to fragrant Mediterranean scrub and about 500 olive trees.

Our first morning, Francesco Villa, Technical Director, took our group to view the three vineyards of Caiarossa. Caiarossa/Podere Serra all’Olio, planted in 1998, surrounds the winery and is the lowest vineyard at 150-220 meters a.s.l. Clay soil is dominant yet gravel, limestone, and iron are found. Varieties grown are Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Syrah, Petit Verdog, Alicante, Chardonnay, Petit Manseng, and Viognier.

Syrah, Alicante, and Viognier thrive at breezy Le Lame/Val di Cecina at 120-160 meters a.s.l. on mainly sandy and calcareous soils.

The highest vineyard is Nocolina at 200-350 meters a.s.l. There, volcanic soils with marl, schist, and stones directly face the sea. As a result, sea breezes and cooler temperatures prevail. Planted are Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot, Viognier, and Chardonnay.

A nod to simplicity and respect for the land is discovered in not only the wines, but the place itself. Utilizing the philosophy and rules of biodynamics, the Demeter collaboration began in 1999 and biodynamic certification was achieved in 2005. Since 2003, Caiarossa is certified organic. There is no use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides in any soil types and the production process follows the “rhythm of nature, the lunar calendar, the use of herbal preparations to be distributed to soils and plants, and the exclusive use of indigenous yeasts.” Homegrown compost and biodynamic preparations are used to maintain soil fertility and “energize the growth cycles of each vine.” Field beans, clover, mustard, oats and barley are grown between rows and beehives are set up to encourage biodiversity and pollination.

No winery visit is complete unless a walk around the barrel room is offered! At Caiarossa, the 4^th and basement floors hold barriques, wooden barrels, and amphora for ageing. Temperature and humidity are diligently monitored to ensure optimal maturation in the woods. Natural ventilation via a system of openings is connected to the outside and the forest adjacent to the cellar.

Sharing Wine, Food, Conversation with Friends at Caiarossa

Wine is meant to be enjoyed with food and the welcoming team at Caiarossa delivered all of that and more. Our first evening together was spent poolside at Caiarossa’s villa. Luscious appetizers of lasagne bites and savory pomodoro were paired with a splash of Caiarossa Bianco, a mineral-driven blend of Chardonnay and Viognier, grown on the estate’s most calcareous soil. Lively conversation and plenty of laughter led to an al fresco dinner outside under the lights. Nirvana.

It was clear that the close-knit Caiarossa team are just as energetic as the terroir. Their commitment, passion and care for the goals of the winery and each other are notable and inspiring. After just one evening, our group felt like family! Full of life, Roberta Palma, PR and Communication Manager, led the conversation with others adding anecdotes and more throughout dinner.

Flavorful beef meatballs on a Parmesan cream were served and Pergolaia 2020 was poured as our starter course. Elegant and fresh, Pergolaia 2020 is Sangiovese based with small amounts of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot from parcels on chalky soil near the sea; it was aged for 12 months in wooden barrels. Notes of red berries, bright citrus, and florals on a foundation of velvet tannins and moderate acidity are pervasive in this fresh and approachable wine.

Our first course was homemade tortelloni filled with Tuscan peposo served with drops of pecorino cream and a wine reduction. A brilliant pairing was Aria di Caiarosso 2020, a textured and rich blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and Grenache from the highest vineyard, aged 14 months in barriques.

Savory wild boar with black olives served with roasted potatoes was complemented by both Caiarossa 2020 and Caiarossa 2006. Elegant, balanced, and refined, Caiarossa 2020 is a careful blend of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Sangiovese, Petit Verdot and Grenache aged in barriques for at least 14 months. Caiarossa 2006 paired beautifully with the boar thanks to its tannic structure and age-worthy, complex palate profile of fruit and herbs punctuated with lingering freshness.

A tartlet with pastry cream, fresh apricots, and dried fruit crumble was our finale and Oro di Caiarossa 2021, a late harvest wine of Petit Manseng was just sweet enough for pairing. Intense and creamy, its fresh flavors and texture offered notes of candied fruit and hint of marzipan.

Will I return to Caiarossa? Absolutely. And you should, too. Anyone who visits will feel the magic of Caiarossa with its pastoral surroundings and generous people. It’s impossible to not be exhilarated. Its unique location with views of the sea and scents of the landscape are easily accessible by car from Pisa, Florence, and Sienna. Tastings and tours are offered at the winery, guests can meander through the vineyards, and the nearby town of Riparbella is waiting for your exploration.

I’ll see you there with glass in hand!

Cheers! ~ Cindy

The name Caiarossa was chosen to pay homage to Gaia, the Earth goddess, and the red earth of the area. The logo shows the head of an Etruscan statue of Dionysus, the god of wine, vegetation, and fertility. The representation of the original (now at Chateau Giscours in Bordeaux) was acquired by Eric Albada Jeigersman before he became owner of Caiarossa.