In the category of “I never drink it, but it sounds interesting even though my grandmother liked it,” is Sherry, a style of wine that is characterized by its maturation process. In the past, wines from the southwest area of Spain, around the towns of Jerez, Sanlucar de Barrameda and Puerto de Santa Maria (also known as the “Sherry Triangle,”) were beloved those in the Netherlands and the United Kingdom. Now, though, its popularity has waned although Sherry has a considerable fan base (that includes me).
Three grape varieties are permitted in Jerez: Palomino, Pedro Ximinez (PX), and Muscat of Alexandria. They thrive in the region’s warm and sunny Mediterranean climate and on albariza soils with high chalk content that provides good drainage and moisture retention.
Photo credit: wineroutesofspain.com
Sherry Basics
Most of the finest, high quality sherries are bone dry except for Pedro Ximenez, Moscatel, and Cream Sherries.
Palomino is the most important grape variety in the sherry region. All dry sherries are made from palomino, while sweet sherries can be made from moscatel or Pedro Ximenez grapes.
Sherry is made in a solera system, a complex process that blends wines from many different vintages together over a long period of time. Thus, the age of any given sherry is an estimated average rather than a precise figure.
Many sherries contain anywhere from 15-22% alcohol by volume, so please drink responsibly.
Sherry is an aged wine. Even the youngest finos and manzanillas average two or three years and most are aged longer. The average age of many of the finest amontillados, olorosos, and palo cortados can be measured in decades.
Dry sherry can be further categorized into biologically aged wines (fino, manzanilla), oxidatively-aged wines (oloroso), and intermediate styles that combine both types of aging (amontillado, palo cortado).
In cask, sherry is aged either biologically (with flor) or oxidatively (without flor). The flor is a layer of yeasts that forms on the surface of the wine in the barrel, protecting it from oxygen and contributing flavor and character.
Sherry is made in a wide variety of styles. It can be dry (fino, manzanilla, amontillado, palo cortado, oloroso) and sweet (cream, moscatel, Pedro Ximenez).
At Bodegas Tradicion
Styles of Sherry
Fino – Sherry aged under flor, which lends salinity and complexity to the wine. You may find aromas of almonds, herbs, and dough derived from the action of the flor and tangy, salty flavors. Refreshing fino (my favorite style) pairs with fried food, sushi, sashimi, seafood, jamon, fresh cheeses and olives.
Manzanilla – A flor-aged sherry, similar to fino, but matured in the town of Sanlucar de Barrameda.Because of its gentle aromas from the coastal town where it’s made, a good Manzanilla pairs beautifully with seafood. Pair with foods similar to Fino, but also try vegetarian dishes.
Amontillado – A sherry that undergoes two distinct phases of aging. It begins as a fino or manzanilla, is aged under flor, and continues aging oxidatively, without flor. The color is amber or brown.More rich than Fino or Manzanilla, serve with soups, creamy dishes, pork, cheeses, and rich vegetables like the difficult to pair artichoke or green asparagus.
Palo Cortado – An intermediate style like amontillado, it combines characteristic of both biological and oxidative aging. Some say that it combines the finesse of an amontillado with the body of an oloroso. Old Palos have very rich but subtle flavors so pair accordingly. Recently, I had a duck sausage flatbread with a glass of Palo Cortado – amazing!
Oloroso – A sherry aged entirely oxidatively, without flor. These sherries are deep brown and show aromas such as toffee, leather, spice, and walnut. Very old olorosos may develop intense savory notes.Much like Amontillado pairings, complement rich beef, lamb, cured meats, game dishes, and cured seafood.
Cream – A moderately sweet sherry, usually a blend of oloroso and Pedro Ximenez. Make the s’mores!!
Moscatel – A sweet style made from the moscatel grape with a signature floral aroma.Sweet pairings include flan and crème brulee or marmalade. Each will soften the citrus notes of the Moscatel and reveal its floral and spice elements.
Pedro Ximenez – The sweetest style of sherry, made from grapes that are partially dried in the sun before pressing. This is my go-to choice for pouring over ice cream, but you may want to sip a glass with bites of blue cheese or squares of dark chocolate.
Fino sherry and grilled octopus
How to Serve and Store Sherry
Fascinated? It’s time to open your chilled bottle of sherry from Bodegas Tradicion, Lustau, or other bodegas (see below) in southern Spain.
Serve sherry in a white wine glass so that its aromas and flavors are expressed more effectively. While it is traditionally associated with a small, narrow glass called the copita, you’ll want to pour it in your standard white wine glass.
Once opened, refrigerate the bottle and mark it with the date you opened the bottle. Often left in decanters and open bottles for months, it soon loses its complexity. Although drinkable, why would you want to try?
Unlike regular still wines, sherry must be stored vertically instead of horizontally. The less oxygen is in contact with the wine, the better.
NOTE: Please refer to the following outstanding producers from Spain.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
For more about Sherry, enjoy this episode from Crush On This!
