Puglia (Apulia) is found in the southeast region of Italy, specifically, at the heel of Italy’s boot. This breathtaking region is known for its whitewashed hillside towns, trulli homes, centuries old architecture and churches, hundreds of kilometers of coastline that kiss the Adriatic Sea, millions of olive trees, and tens of thousands of vineyards.
Puglia – Photo Credit: Lonely Planet
Primitivo in Puglia
This southeast region is also known for its delicious wines, particularly Primitivo. Out of Italy’s 20 wine regions, Puglia is the second largest producer of red wine.
Originally from Croatia, grapes named Tribidrag found their way to Puglia where, in the 18th century, they were renamed Primitivo, which means ‘first to open’ because the grapes ripened earlier than others. Eventually cuttings from the grapevines were transported to California, where they are known as Zinfandel. Because California and Italy share kindred Mediterranean type climates and soil composition, these wines taste similar. Due to convergent evolution, both Italy and California show chaparral, a shrub-land plant community of vegetation, which is influenced by their unique soil types. Primitivo, once discovered it was the same as Zinfandel, gained popularity as a single varietal; it was originally used to blend with other Italian wines. Meant to be consumed young, this wine can age for up to 8 years in the bottle.
It is a dark-skinned grape variety that produces rich, inky wines. Full bodied with a high alcohol content, moderate tannins, and medium acidity, its flavor profile features jammy blackberries, plums, and black cherries along with hints of dark chocolate, licorice, and tobacco. Primitivo pairs well with hearty dishes, lamb, red meats, aged cold cuts, strong cheeses, orecchiette (the region’s famous pasta) and bold tomato sauces.
I Pastini Vineyards and Winery
During my recent vacation in Apulia, we visited I Pastini vineyards and winery. Founded in 1996 by Gianni and his father, Donato Carparelli, I Pastini is is a family-owned bio-organic winery found in the heart of Valle d’Itria near the historical town of Alberobello. Our visit yielded a tour rich in history, combining ancient and modern wine-making techniques. Strolling through the native vineyards, one can visualize the ancestral farmers that tended these 18 hectares of centuries old vineyards. I Pastini grows Primitivo and Susumaniello red grapes; as well as Verdeca, Bianca d’Alessano and Minutolo white grapes. The vines are protected by roses that are planted at the foot of each vine row, besides improving soil quality, roses attract bees to aid in pollinating the grapes, as well as a preventative measure to mitigate mold and disease and deter pests from the vines.
The vineyards have excellent exposure to the sun as they were planted north to south, surrounding them with uniform radiation, constant ventilation, and comfortable temperatures combined with rocky limestone soil allowing for the perfect growth of healthy grapes. During the 20 days of harvest in September, two dozen experienced farmers meticulously hand pick each grape. After aging in French oak barrels, the I Pastini crew bottle approximately 1,200 bottles per hour. Sealed in stainless steel tanks, the charmat method is used to produce their sparkling wines. Wines produced the charmat way are filtered and reveal a softer carbonation than the traditional method.
Accommodating up to 30 guests per tasting, their educational classroom style tasting room is a unique and pleasant experience. We were treated to three of the owners’ favorites: Valle d’Itria IGP Spumante Charmat – 100% Verdeca; Rampone Valle d’Itria IGP Bianco – 100% Minutolo and VersoSud Puglia IGP Rosso – 100% Susumaniello. Each of these unique and delicious wines were paired with a special Italian appetizer which included olives, bruschetta, dried fava beans and taralli, a tasty savory breadstick baked into a circle.
Experiencing More Wines of Puglia
During lunch and dinner, experiencing a new local Italian wine was a genuine highlight of our 8-day culinary Apulian adventure where we savored a couple dozen select wines paired with authentic Italian cuisine. Our meals included glasses of: Rivo di Liandro, Suro Salento, Note di Luna, Coppi Negroamaro, Viaventi Prosecco, Sanpancrazio Rosalbore, Salice Salentino, Rosso Basilicata, Terrie di Sole Bianca, Serre Susumaniello, Primitivo di Manduria, Fiano Puglia, Negroamaro Puglia, Angio Fiano Salento, and Sanpancrazio Serrapetralba.
Other grape varietals native to Puglia include: Bovalegrande, Bombino, Montepulciano, Negro Amaro, UVA di Troia, Verdeca, Barbera, Grillo and Sangiovese.
I highly recommend making Puglia your next destination vacation. In the meantime, visit a local wine shop and discover the delicious flavors of southern Italy!
Guest writer Donna Cruciani proudly holds her WSET (Wine & Spirits Educational Trust) Level 2 certificate. She delights in travel for enriching experiences and savors a diverse array of wines from across the globe. Follow Donna’s adventures on Instagram HERE.
Cheers! ~ Cindy
