At I Veroni in Chianti Rufina, Elegance and Balance Characterize Its Wines

There will never be a time I’ll say “no, thank you” to a pour of wine from Tuscany. Some of the most interesting wines in Italy claim this breathtaking region as their home. Those from Chianti, Chianti Classico, Vino Nobile Montepulciano, Brunello di Montepulciano, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, Vin Santo, and more, reflect a diverse landscape and climate, a rich culture, and tradition blended with modernity.

Within Tuscany are specific wine regions – some may be familiar, others, perhaps, not. Just recently, I learned about I Veroni, a certified organic winery only 10 kilometers from Florence, in Chianti Rufina, one of the smallest of the seven subzones of Chianti DOCG. The conversation, led by Lorenzo Mariani, the owner, and Luca Innocenti, Lorenzo’s childhood friend and I Veroni’s marketing and sales director, was followed by a tasting of two wines sent as samples.

 

 

Chianti Rufina is a highly respected sub-zone of Chianti DOCG that covers land around the small town of Rufina found on the banks of the Sieve river, in the foothills of the Apennines mountains. It’s the farthest inland of much of the rest of Chianti and benefits from the distance from the sea as well as a higher altitude, as much as 500m (1600 ft) above sea level. The area enjoys a more continental climate and a strong diurnal shift in temperature resulting in Sangiovese-based wines offering bright acidity and firm tannic structure. Soils are limestone-based with a fair amount of clay.

In Chianti Rufina, wines must be at least 70% Sangiovese with any proportion of Canaiolo, Colorino, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot as part of the blend. However, Cabernet Sauvignon and/or Cabernet Franc must not comprise any more than 15%.

 

At I Veroni, 70 hectares of land located between 200-300 meters above sea level include 20 hectares of around 4000 olive trees. Lorenzo Mariani explained that “the company was founded 300 years ago and owned by the Mariani family since 1897.” On the property is the 17^th century farmhouse and the winery’s ancient roots reflect “Tuscan territory, tradition and culture.” In fact, the history of the farm goes back as far as the end of 1500 when it was an agricultural complex owned by the noble Gatteschi family who built the first fermentation tanks of musts. The oldest document relating to the Fattoria I Veroni as an agricultural complex is the will of Bartolomeo d’Angiolo Gatteschi, personal physician of Cosimo I dei Medici, and dated 1582.

The name “i veroni” derives from “verone,” an ancient Tuscan term indicating a terrace, loggia, covered or uncovered, and in particular, in the agricultural environment, the covered terrace with which the external staircase of the country houses ends. At the Fattoria I Veroni, there were large masonry terraces, of which today only one remains, from which the name of the building complex and the place then emerged, as well as, today, of the entire company and its wines. I Veroni

Lorenzo Mariani shared that in wines from I Veroni “we can find the soft flavors of Sangiovese and bright acidity. We don’t use Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc or Merlot. When you taste, you’ll understand the elegance of the area.”

Currently, I Veroni is proud to be a part of the Terraelectae project that aims to publicize the “importance of Chianti Rufina as an independent appellation from which selected and elegant wines are produced, establishing a new trademark different from all the other Chianti appellations.” By all accounts, Chianti Rufina is highly respected for its “exceptional character” and its fruit forward, sophisticated wines having the ability to age.

I Domi Chianti Rufina DOCG 2020 ($20) is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo Nero and Colorino. Vineyards are in the area of Podere Pianottolo where I Veroni’s beautiful, country home of “cozy, refined apartments” is found. The parcels are south/southwest facing and at a height of 250 meters above sea level. This wine is aged for 12-14 months in Slavonian oak and in the bottle for at least another 6 months. On the concentrated nose, I found savory herbs and dark purple and red fruit. Full bodied and balanced with bright acidity and integrated tannins, rich red fruit notes were prevalent and offered a lingering, vivacious finish. “The wine has interesting acidity that makes you finish the bottle when you’re eating – this is meant to be sipped with food for a fresh sensation,” stated Lorenzo. Luca added, “Drink this with any mushroom dish – outstanding! – or homemade pasta with rich tomato sauce and plenty of garlic.”

Of 100% Sangiovese is Chianti Rufina Riserva “Vigneto Quona” DOCG 2019 ($30). The south/southwest facing Quona vineyard is at the foot of the ancient little church of San Martino in Quona and sits at an altitude of 300 meters above sea level. Aging of the wine took place in Slavonian oak barrels for 18 months and at least 12 more months in the bottle. Aromas of blackberries, ripe red cherries, spice, tobacco leaf and subtle oak notes burst from the glass. The broad palate presented rich red fruit notes surrounded by vibrant acidity and satin-like tannins. Lorenzo explained that the tannins “are always elegant, soft and silky” in these wines. Although it’s tempting to sip this wine with red meats, game, or aged cheeses, consider aging the Riserva for years to come.

 

 

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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If you have time to read more articles about wines from Chianti, enjoy the following from my #ItalianFWT colleagues.

• Wendy of A Day in the Life on the Farm shares A Classic Italian Pairing
• Jennifer of Vino Travels teaches The History of Family with Cecchi
• Cam of Culinary Adventures with Camilla provides Cucina Povera and Two Bottles of Chianti Classico
• Robin of Crushed Grape Chronicles discusses Wines of Family with Chianti Classico from Famiglia Cecchi and a Tuscan Style Ragu
• Linda of My Full Wine Glass serves Chianti Classico and spaghetti to warm the body and soul
• Jeff of Food Wine Click!writes about “Rufina: One Straw in the Chianti Haystack”
• Katarina of Grapevine Adventures shows how 3 Chianti DOCG Wines Show the Potential of 3 Different Suzones
• Liz of What’s in that Bottle has Two Chianti Wines for Fall
• Gwendolyn of Wine Predator serves up 2 Cecchi Chianti Classico Paired With Instant Pot Bolognese #ItalianFWT