Have You Tasted Wines from Moldova? Try These!

Are you ready to sip a wine from a region so ancient and intriguing that it’s well on its way to being modern (again)? This month the #WinePW (Wine Pairing Weekend) crew, led by Jeff Burrows of Food, Wine, Click, are focusing their palates and research skills on the wines of Moldova and foods for pairing. (For my colleagues’ articles, see below.)

Moldova? That’s right. This small country of fewer than 4 million people is nestled in southeast Europe between Ukraine and Romania in the Black Sea Basin and has been producing wine for centuries. Its history begins in 3000 BC, although the first vines on record were around 7000 BC. Apparently, wine was used for bartering and as an award trophy after fights.

 

Moldova has one of the highest density of vineyards as a percentage of total land of any country in the world. They have a long history of producing wine and were well known in prior centuries in the courts of both Russia and England. During the Soviet era, Moldova became a part of the Soviet Union and all privately owned land and companies were taken over by the state. Production was shifted to serve the workers, so quantity was emphasized and quality was not a major consideration. With the fall of the Soviet Union in 1991, Moldova’s vineyards and wineries were returned to private ownership, but it was a long, difficult road back to prosperity.

Today, Moldova’s wines have returned to earn a place in the international wine scene. In 2013, Moldova’s National Office of Wine and Vine and the partner wineries took on the challenge of establishing European approved protected geographical indications (PGI) labeling for the three major wine regions. Now there are plenty of IGT labeled wines available, with efforts now to establish Designated Origin (DO) labeling as approved by European authorities. Jeff Burrows in Could Moldova Be Your Next Wine Destination?

Moldova has a landscape of low hills, sunny plateaus and plains, and a fair number of streams that flow into the rivers, Prut and Dniester. The climate is moderately continental and is influenced by its location near the Black Sea. Thanks to its latitude of 46-47 degrees, Moldova is well suited for the production of quality red wines and in the central part of the country, white wines are dominant.

Over 50 types of varieties are cultivated in the 112,000 hectares. About 70% of grapes in the Codru zone in the center of Moldova are white and include Rkatsiteli, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Aligote and more. In the southern regions of Valul lui Traian (southwest) and Stefan Voda (southeast), 30% are red. Cultivated are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Saperavi and more. 30% of the total number of vineyards produce wines with intense aromatics.

Indigenous varieties account for only 10% of the vineyards and express the “authenticity and uniqueness of Moldovan wines.” Native grapes are Feteasca Alba, Feteasca Regala, Feteasca Neagra, Rara Neagra, Plavai, Viorica and more. For fascinating information about the history, unique characteristics of the vineyards, winemaking practices and beyond, please visit the Wine of Moldova website here.

The wines of Moldova may be difficult to locate in the United States, but once you do, it’s worth the effort. I was sent three wines as samples and have been impressed with my first journey to this ancient country via my palate. Each winery has a special story and I encourage you to visit their websites linked below.

*310 Altitudine 2019 ($17.99) from Fautor Winery was as flavorful as it was refreshing. Of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Feteasca Regala, notes of lime zest, yellow florals and stone fruit including white peaches were prevalent on the nose and palate. The finish lingered on this balanced, full-bodied wine. Pair with a bountiful salad, rich appetizers, a favorite pasta dish or seafood with a white sauce or a luscious soup. (Of note is that Feteasca Regala was created in the 1930s in Romania and is a cross of Grasa and Feteasca alba varieties.)

The winery and vineyards are located in the Tigheci microzone, part of Valul lui Traian in the southern area of Moldova. Between 2003 and 2006, Fautor Winery embraced advanced technology and new vineyards were planted. Under vine is now 350 hectares. In 2017, 2018 and 2019, Fautor Winery was the most awarded Moldovan winery and everyone are proud of their “unique portfolio of rare varieties and world exclusive blends.”

Following are two wines of 100% Rara Neagra, a red variety that’s cultivated in the south of Moldova and in Romania where it’s the second most widely planted grape. It’s also known as Babeasca neagra, meaning “grandmother’s black.” In general, wines of this variety offer a lighter body, moderate acidity, soft tannins and plenty of fruit.

From Gitana Winery, Rara Neagra 2018 ($22.99) is a lovely selection with delightful aromas of red berries, strawberries, raspberries and hint of pomegranate. On the creamy palate, intense flavors included an abundance of dried red and purple fruit, oak and touch of brioche. The wine was stored in large oak barrels from Krasnnodar for two years, then bottled in May 2020. Pair with pork or veal cutlets, a hearty stew or your favorite grilled dishes. 

The history of family-owned Gitana Winery began in 1953 and by all accounts, their legacy continues. By 2017, the wines entered the Asian markets with exports to Japan, China and South Korea. That year also heralded the Autograph brand that includes Feasca Regala, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Merlot. In 2018, the winery announced the launch of three wines from the Young, White, Pink and Red Gitana brand. The family stated, “A family business represents longevity and steadfastness, things that are directly reflected in the work you do. Gitana wines are not just wine, but an inheritance, the fruit of a hard work that led to a flawless story.”

A luscious pairing with my sizzling shish kabobs was 1827 Rara Neagra de Purcari 2018 ($39.99) from Chateau Purcari. On the nose, aromas of pomegranate, milk chocolate and dark, juicy plums wafted from the glass. The broad, complex palate offered notes of vanilla, dried fruit compote, wood shavings and ripe red berries. The finish lingered with notes of oak and fruit… Aged for six months in French oak, grapes were harvested and selected by hand using traditional methods.

Purcari Winery has cellars constructed towards the end of the 19^th century. Built in the style of a manor house where temperatures and humidity are consistent, the Purcari Vinotheque has the “best wines, where the prices start from $100 per bottle.” The oldest in the collection is from 1951.

As you may expect, foods from Moldova include those consistent with many Eastern European countries. Inspiration is derived from the cuisines of Romania, Russia, Ukraine, Poland, Greece and beyond. The menu of choices is rife with meat, potatoes and vegetables and of late, foods from Western countries can be seen on the table. For pairing with the wines above, I chose a traditional shish kebob recipe, but if you’re enticed by intriguing, more classic Moldovan dishes to try, click here.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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For articles about the wines of Moldova and foods for pairing, please see the links from my #WinePW colleagues.

Andrea at The Quirky Cork shares “Cooking Out with Moldovan Wine”

Liz at What’s in that Bottle shares “Moldova Mashup: Wines of Moldova & Foods of the World“

Terri at Our Good Life shares “Special Celebration and Moldova Wines”

Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “Smoked Pot Roast with a Negru de Purcari from Moldova”

David at Cooking Chat shares “Ground Beef Chili with Red Wine from Moldova”

Deanna at Asian Test Kitchen shares “Pairing Moldovan Wine with Burmese Cuisine”

Linda at My Full Wine Glass shares “Finally, a grill! Just in time for Moldovan wine pairing”

Camilla from Culinary Adventures with Camilla shares “Maidens from Moldova + Summer Suppers”

Jennifer at Vino Travels Italy shares “A Look into the Wines of Moldova”

Jane at Always Ravenous shares “Savory Cheese Crostata Paired with Moldovan Wines”

Michelle at Rockin Red Blog shares “Discovering Wines of Moldova.”

Rupal at Syrah Queen shares “Uncorking Moldova – Three Wines To Try Now”

Martin at Enofylz Wine Blog shares “Getting To Know the Wines of Moldova”

Nicole at Somms Table shares “Tasty Moldovan Food & Wine Explorations”

Gwendolyn at Wine Predator shares “Moldova: Bubbles, Red Blend, and …Pizza? Yes!”

Pinny at Chinese Food and Wine Pairings shares “Moldovan Wines and Korean Sushi – Kimbap”

Susannah from Avvinare shares “Moldova – An Ancient Country with Beautiful Wines to Discover”

Jill at L’Occasion shares “A First Taste of Moldova Wines”

Jeff at Food Wine Click! shares “Cabin Pairings for Moldovan Wines”