Conviction of Beliefs is Reflected in the Wines of Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery

The wines of Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery located on Spring Mountain west of the town of St. Helena are some of my favorites and I’ve been sipping, sharing and reviewing the wines for years. I can always count on each wine, no matter the variety or vintage year, to reflect a sense of place and the carefully considered hands-on philosophy of the growers and winemakers. Truth be told, Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery is a magical spot with sweeping vistas of mountains and vineyards and world-class, award-winning wines poured for anyone fortunate enough to visit.

Nestled on Spring Mountain Road, a mere 30-minute drive from St. Helena, is Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery, a 200- acre ranch partly planted as a vineyard over one hundred years ago. Where California black bears and other wildlife once flourished, gigantic 120-year-old Picholine olive trees now thrive on land that overlooks Napa Valley and Napa Valley State Park. World class vineyards do, too. (Excerpt from my article: Fascinating Smith-Madrone: The People, The Place, The Wines – Read more here.)

As an homage to the realized dreams of Stuart Smith, Managing Partner and Enologist and Charles Smith III, Winemaker, and the majestic Madrone tree that grows throughout the estate, the name Smith-Madrone was given to this winery, one that is producing some of the finest examples of Riesling, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon I’ve tasted. The grapes in each wine are cultivated in dry-farmed estate vineyards surrounding the winery. Located atop Spring Mountain at an 1800-foot elevation, vines grow on extremely steep slopes with red Aiken soil from weathered volcanic materials and sedimentary rock.

For 47 years, Smith-Madrone grapes have been sourced from the same vineyards. These historic lands produce grapes that have been pruned, cultivated, and harvested in the same manner… and by the same people. Yet, “Mother Nature stamps each vintage with a unique set of flavors, senses, and character.”  As a result, the portfolio of wines exudes artisanal flair and diverse characteristics that are quite unique to the Spring Mountain District.

With consistent accolades for these magnificent wines, you’d expect an air of pretentiousness on the part of Stu Smith or Charlie Smith. But once you meet them, you’ll change your opinion. Each man is authentic and honest with a kick-back vibe. They’re approachable and always willing to talk, especially if the conversation is about wine. Knowing as much, I recently reached out to Stu Smith who was happy to chat and answer a few questions about a myriad of subjects including the four wines I had received as samples.

What’s the “secret” to the success of Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery?” I asked Stu. “We care. We have the conviction of our beliefs and we don’t listen to fads. Historically, great wines are balanced, elegant and complex, and show restraint and finesse. We make the wines for ourselves and not for the scores. At the heart of making wine is farming. I get to play in dirt, be a farmer, then go home and have wine with family and friends, good food and conversation. Any stress goes away.” Intrigued? Let’s continue…

Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery – Selected New Releases

One of my most beloved Rieslings is their latest release, Smith Madrone Dry Riesling 2016 ($34). Vibrant aromas of white flowers, white peaches, juicy pineapple, squeeze of fresh lime, lemon zest and breezy salinity were clean and precise. The dry, creamy palate oozed vibrant acidity and notes of kiwi, lime, white pepper and herbs threaded with a vein of minerality. The luscious finish lingered… In fact, this Riesling has the ability to age 20-30 years.

Chardonnay lovers, Smith-Madrone Spring Mountain District Chardonnay 2016 ($40) is for you… and anyone else who appreciates a full-bodied complex white wine. On the nose, I discovered notes of Meyer lemon, hazelnuts and almonds, stone fruit and the slightest hint of oak. The palate burst with intense and elegant flavors of citrus, pepper, herbs, and a touch of honey enveloped with bright acidity. This Chardonnay was aged for 9 months in 80% new French oak.

Magnificent on the palate is Smith-Madrone Spring Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ($52). Enticing aromas of deep red fruit, rich black cherries, ripe pomegranate, hint of smoke, dash of black pepper and vanilla were intense and seductive in this blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Cabernet Franc. Flavors of black currants, ripe red plums, juicy blueberries, cola, licorice, herbs and baking spice were framed by vibrant acidity and satin-like tannins. “The 2015 vintage was unremarkable – a good thing,” stated Stu. “There were no problems other than a short rainfall and small crop. The wines that year are clean, true to type, structurally correct. This wine has “Cabernet Sauvignon” stamped all over it.” The wine spent 18 months in French oak before bottling.

And this: Smith-Madrone Cook’s Flat Reserve 2016 ($225). A brilliant, balanced blend, this wine can be served at a star-studded dinner party or at relaxed backyard gathering with your favorite winelovers. Stu Smith explained that they “have fun with this project. The name is an homage to George Cook, the first legal owner of the property the Smith family purchased in 1971, and indicates the 8-acre parcel (named Cook’s Flat) of the 200 acres purchased. The concept started with the 2007 vintage. We didn’t want to make big, bold California Cabernet. Instead, we wanted to make a wine to compete with First Growth Bordeaux. We only produce this wine when the vintage year is superior and each year the blend is different. The 2016 is of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Cabernet Franc. We’ll release the wine when we want to….”

Rich and full, I discovered intense aromas of dark and juicy plums, black cherries and hint of earth. On the creamy, textured palate, notes of blackberries, dark chocolate, currants, sweet tobacco, baking spices and slightest hint of green tea rested on a foundation of soft tannins and moderate acidity. The finish was exceptional. Stu suggested, “Cook’s Flat Reserve 2016 can age 15-20 years. It’s elegant, soft, sophisticated.” Only 130 cases of this wine were produced; my bottle was stamped 1352 of 1560.

Cheers ~ Cindy

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