Abacela Vineyards in Umpqua Valley, Oregon: A “Special Pocket of the World” Where Spanish Varieties Flourish

Early one morning, frost occurred in the vineyards after which wind machines warmed the vines. Yet, Earl Jones, CEO and co-owner of Abacela in Umpqua Valley, Oregon, carved time out of his already busy morning to chat with me about his journey into wine, a few of the most intriguing wines I’ve had (sent as samples), and why this “pocket of the world” is special. What I discovered during our conversation was that Earl Jones, forthcoming and friendly, intelligent and innovative, is an undeniable force in the wine industry.

2020 marks the 25^th anniversary of Abacela and Earl and Hilda Jones’ pioneering efforts to cultivate Tempranillo and Albariño in North America. Both Doctors of Immunology in Georgia with no winemaking experience, the couple left lucrative careers, “loaded their children into the car” and traveled 2700 miles west to devote themselves to “testing their hypothesis that Roseburg, Oregon in Umpqua Valley had the optimal climate for growing Tempranillo.”

While a resident physician in the Bay area, Earl was introduced to Spanish wines by a local delicatessen owner who matched the food Earl loved to wines from Spain. “It was a slow evolution of inspiration to love Spanish wines,” Earl remarked. The rest is history. Now, Earl and Hilda Jones have not only realized their dream to plant Spanish wine grapes but have successfully cultivated 15 more varieties at Abacela, an estate of 500 acres of which 75 acres are under vine. The name of the winery stems from the word “Abacelar,” a little-used Latin-Spanish verb for “to plant a grape vine.” For fascinating details about the Jones’ journey to success, click here.

Earl explained that he and Hilda “wanted to find property that matched the climates of Rioja and Ribera del Duero with their diurnal swings and warm temperatures. Umpqua Valley is perfect. The key to growing Tempranillo is that it has to ripen at the end of the growing season. Now, all of the varieties we’ve planted are ripening at the same time – as autumn ends.”

Planted on south facing hillsides, vines are 100 feet above the valley and range in elevation from 500 to 800 feet. One challenge, Earl stated, is that “although much of the land slopes south, Albariño is planted on a north slope. It’s cooler. We wanted the style to be more like that found in Galicia.” And it is. The Albariño 2019 ($21) I tasted offered bright aromas of lemon and lime sorbet, ripe melon, banana chips, pineapple and brilliant minerality on the nose. The crisp palate was rife with citrus, tropical fruit and mouthwatering acidity, elements I find flavorful and refreshing.

Five years after the couple purchased the property, they discovered that the land sits on the 120-mile long “Thrust Fault”, a stable fault connecting northern Oregon to southern Oregon. There are seven different soil types and Earl, ever the scientist, considers their property a “vineyard laboratory” at which he has learned to match specific varieties to ideal soils and climate. Currently cultivated at Abacela are Albariño, Tempranillo, Syrah, Grenache, Tannat, Malbec and five native Portuguese grapes.

Tasting the six wines sent to me as samples was sheer pleasure. The lovely Grenache Rosé 2019 ($19) exuded notes of ripe red berries, rose petals, jasmine, hint of white pepper, vanilla and minerality on both nose and palate. Perfect for any occasion, the 2017 Fiesta Tempranillo ($25) presented intense aromas of black cherries, smoke, leather and pepper while the palate burst with flavors of dark plums and blackberries framed with moderate tannins and vibrant acidity. Tempranillo lovers will also enjoy the 2015 Tempranillo Reserve ($49). Lush aromas and flavors of cranberries, black fruit compote, dried lavender, plums, black pepper and vanilla reminded me of the beauty of Rioja. Balanced and complex, a thread of minerality, firm tannins and laser-beam acidity enveloped the flavorful notes in this memorable Tempranillo.

With each sip of the complex and elegant 2015 Syrah Reserve ($44), I was truly impressed. Aromas of rosemary, sage, blackberries, purple plums and lavender wafted from the glass. The palate offered lush tannins and lively acidity and reflected notes found on the nose yet with additions of chalk, black pepper and vanilla bean. The finish lingered. I was intrigued and surprised by the 2016 Tina Amarela ($30), a rare Portuguese variety that thrives at Abacela. Incredibly dry (there is zero residual sugar), I discovered abundant spice, ripe blueberries, black mulberries, spice, black tea, cocoa, dried raspberries, cranberries and subtle notes of vanilla on a foundation of firm tannins and moderate acidity.

I asked Earl which wines are his choices to gift others. “I like to give friends wines they can’t get anywhere else,” he shared. “Our Tinta Amarela is the first of its variety to be bottled in the United States. Tannat and Graciano are other unusual choices.”  For weeknight wines, Earl and Hilda enjoy a chilled glass of Albariño, Grenache Rosé, Grenache or Fiesta Tempranillo. For special occasions, Earl considers the food menu along with the celebratory wine. That said, “a bottle of Syrah Reserve, Tempranillo Reserve, Malbec Reserve or Paramour is always perfect!”

Earl explained that he, Hilda and their dedicated team are committed to remaining “stewards of the land and grapes. The terroir allows us to cultivate distinctive varieties that had never been planted in the area.” Their efforts and successes are lauded. In 2013 Abacela was recognized as the “Oregon Winery of the Year” and in 2015 the Oregon Wine Board presented Earl and Hilda with the industry’s “Lifetime Achievement Award”.

How will the next chapter read? “We’d like to enlarge the plantings of Tinta Amarella, Graciano and Tempranillo,” said Earl. With the May 1^st addition of Gavin Joll as General Manager, the compelling story of Abacela will continue. Joll will manage the vineyards, wine production, marketing, sales, hospitality and business operations while Earl and Hilda will remain CEO and CFO, respectively, and oversee the remainder of estate lands and facilities.

Abacela is found at 12500 Lookingglass Road in Roseburg, Oregon and I look forward to visiting as soon as possible. Although the tasting room is closed at this time, Earl and Hilda conduct virtual tastings and this past Friday, I joined Earl’s Facebook Live chat in time for Malbec World Day. I encourage you to follow Abacela on Facebook and Instagram and to check out their website to learn more about the Jones’ compelling story and their exceptional wines.

When you visit Abacela, taste for yourself why Earl and Hilda Jones selected Umpqua Valley as their “special pocket of the world.”

Cheers! ~ Cindy

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