Wine and Peace – Weekend Vibes in Anderson Valley

Months ago, three wine writing friends and I decided to enjoy a kick-back winter weekend of wine, food and laughter “somewhere” in the United States. Two of these friends, Michelle Williams and Melanie Ofenloch, are from Dallas, another, Allison Levine, lives in Los Angeles and I’m in Chicago. Each of us has spent plenty of time in a variety of wine regions from the right coast to the left, so choosing a spot where none of us has ever visited could have been perceived as a challenge. Except that it wasn’t at all.

As luck would have it, the four of us had never been to Anderson Valley, a 15-mile long stretch approximately 10 miles from the Pacific Ocean via the Navarro River, located in northwestern Mendocino County along Highway 128. Once our plans were finalized, our excitement grew.

The journey was seamless with our flights arriving within minutes of each other in San Francisco. As we drove north, our posse of happy go lucky wine lovers made a quick diversion to Pedroncelli Winery in Geyserville (click here) for a delicious tasting and always-enlightening conversation with our good friend Julie Pedroncelli. Afterwards, our ride to Anderson Valley took us along winding roads and through dense forests of Coast Redwoods, Douglas firs and native oak varieties. It was difficult to believe that this bucolic setting was only hours from bustling San Francisco.

Anderson Valley – A Perfect Place to Sip Wine and Relax

With its nature-filled, “I’m not in a big city anymore” vibe, wine lovers will find sweeping vineyard views and plenty of world-class Pinot Noir and crisp, highly aromatic Alsace-style white wines. Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Gewurtztraminer are cultivated along with Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Riesling and Muscat. Mountains and steep hills frame alluvial terraces that can be gently rolling or flat. Elevations are from sea level to about 2500 feet and annual precipitation is from 35 to 80 inches.

Over 2500 acres are under vine and the average vineyard size in the Valley is 11.5 acres. Approximately 30 tasting rooms are open or by appointment. For more information, refer to the Anderson Valley Wine Growers Association website here.

Even in late January, the four of us experienced the valley’s wide diurnal range of warmer temperatures during the day and chilly temperatures in the evening. (Fortunately, we were well prepared with layers, boots and coats or jackets.) The average annual temperature is 53 degrees Fahrenheit – expect very warm temperatures within the interior during summer. In general, the frost-free season ranges from 220 to 365 days.

 

Cool air from the ocean tempers the climate of the Anderson Valley appellation.  Of course, this allows Pinot Noir growers, in particular, to keep the acid levels in check with sugar and flavors long into the warm months of autumn. Riesling and Gewurtztraminer benefit from this microclimate, too. In fact, the Anderson Valley welcomes wine lovers to their Aromatic White Wine and Pinot Noir festivals each year.

Explore Wine in Anderson Valley

Our first visit was to Domaine Anderson (9201 Highway 128, Philo, California 95466), Louis Roederer family’s newest estate property in the Anderson Valley. The characteristics of the Anderson Valley climate have inspired winemaker Darrin Low to cultivate premium expressions of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Throughout our fascinating visit, it was obvious that Darrin is committed to the stewardship of the land and sustainable practices in the vineyard. In fact, the Dach vineyard is newly certified organic and biodynamic. Low doesn’t just talk the talk, he walks the walk.

 

Darrin Low has serious credentials and experience in winemaking, all of which helped pave the path to Domaine Anderson and his opportunity to craft exceptional wines. While we engaged in a barrel tasting and walked to the top of the Dach Vineyard for a sweeping overlook of the estate, Darrin shared that 50 acres of diverse vineyards spanning the Anderson Valley are owned and farmed by Domaine Anderson.

The Dach Vineyard lies on the valley floor with an altitude of 300 feet. Fog and cool nights help extend the growing season and sandy clay soils are meticulously drained to provide balance. The Walraven Vineyard is found in the steep hills above Boonville in the Anderson Valley appellation. 18 acres of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir flourish on northwest-southeast facing slopes on marine sediment. Low explained with pride that the Dach Vineyard Pinot Noir and Walraven Vineyard Chardonnay are site-specific wines that represent the heart and soul of the Domaine.

With this newfound knowledge, we put our palates to the test with a delicious lunch paired with vineyard views, a selection of memorable wines from Domaine Anderson and more conversation with Darrin Low. The Pinot Noirs I tasted were vibrant and flavorful with structure and balance and the Chardonnays were clean and refreshing with plenty of bright citrus and tropical fruit notes. I look forward to finding these wines in my local wine shop and returning to Domaine Anderson as soon as I can.

After our thank-yous and good-byes to Darrin, we walked across the street to family owned Smith Story Wine Cellars for an impromptu tasting. Greeting us was Lord Sandwich, their beguiling winery dog, and Alison Smith-Story, gracious and thrilled to have us stop by. The husband and wife team of Eric Story and Alison Smith-Story founded the winery in the Russian River Valley AVA in 2013 and operate a custom crush facility as well as their Anderson Valley tasting room. Their fruit is from not only Anderson Valley, but Sonoma Coast, Sonoma Mountain, Russian River and the Rheingau region of Germany.

In the spirit of charitable giving, Eric and Alison launched a “Farmers First” campaign on Kickstarter in 2014 to raise funds for grapegrowers. Within 30 days, the campaign was fully funded. Later that year, Alison started a charity, Socks for Sandwich, that gives new socks to the needy. I found that their wines reflect the Story’s attitude of generosity, kindness and good taste. I was more than impressed with their winemaking philosophy of restraint, balance and respect for the land as well as for those who cultivate the grape.

As if Guy and Sarah Pacurar don’t have enough to do as proprietors of the Brewery Gulch Inn (see below), they also produce wine under the label Fathers & Daughters Cellars. During our stay at the Inn, we were fortunate to have a personal tasting with Guy and Sarah and delve deeper into their story and wines. Guy admitted that his label is an homage to “three of the best things in life: fathers, daughters and wine.” I can’t disagree with that!

We chatted and laughed as we enjoyed pours of whites, reds, rosé and bubbles (but of course!). Guy and Sarah were joined by their young daughter, Ella, who clearly feels the love of family. Inspired by her birth in 2012, the couple made the decision to create a label that celebrates the special bond between fathers and daughters. Sarah’s father, by the way, is Kurt Schoeneman, owner of the iconic Ferrington Vineyards just north of Boonville and where grapes in Fathers & Daughters Chardonnay, Gewurtztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir are cultivated.

I was duly impressed by the portfolio, especially Sarah’s Rustic Bubbles, a pet-nat of 100% Chardonnay from Roederer’s vineyards. The Sauvignon Blanc 2015 was a delightful pairing with our cheese and charcuterie plate and Ella’s Reserve 2012, a luscious Pinot Noir, honors their daughter’s birth.

Find Peaceful Elegance, Coastal Views in Anderson Valley

I now understand why Brewery Gulch Inn (9401 North Highway One, Mendocino, CA) received Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards in 2018 as one of the 100 Best Hotels in the World, one of the Top 10 Resort Hotels in the US and one of the Top 5 Resorts in California. Proprietors Guy and Sarah Pacurar have redefined the phrase “peaceful elegance” with their attention to detail and gracious atmosphere that made us feel right at home during our two-night, complimentary stay in a serene setting.

Spectacular cathedral windows in the main room framed sweeping views of pine trees and surf along the Mendocino coast. This well-appointed great room was the heart of Brewery Gulch Inn with large tables perfect for a board game and comfy chairs in which to sit and read a book by the warm fire or have a relaxed conversation. It also serves as the gathering place for a cooked to order breakfast each morning or the evening dinner buffet featuring luscious variations of crab dishes and local wines (Fathers & Daughters Cellars, among others) and beers – all included with your stay.

Our spacious 560 square foot suite, the Meadowview Room, featured a gas fireplace, leather chairs and sofa, stereo, two televisions (one is a flat panel), microwave, mini-refrigerator and both king and queen beds. In fact, the suite was so warm and cozy, one evening the four of us borrowed a board game and DVD from the Inn’s expansive collection, opened a bottle of wine and achieved one of our goals: relax and enjoy the camaraderie. The movie? The Big Chill, of course!

Around 20 minutes from the town of Mendocino and 30 minutes from the wineries we visited, the location was perfect and easy to find. I’m already looking forward to my return to Brewery Gulch Inn – you’ll want to check out their website here.

Our last night in Anderson Valley was spent at Little River Inn (7901 North Highway One, Little River, California) where guests have been experiencing the beauty and intrigue of the coast for 80 years. The original house, the current site for the outstanding restaurant and Ole’s Whale Watch bar, was built in 1853 by Silas Coombs (who came from Maine to California in search of gold) and continues to be owned by his family. In 1939, the site was repurposed as an inn and “people in the know” are well aware of this lovely place.

Upon arrival, we were offered two complimentary rooms, each with magnificent views of the front lawn and coast from our verandas. The Ocean View Deluxe room has two queen beds, a spacious bathroom with soaking tub, a fireplace and comfortable sitting area. The smaller Traditional room offers two queen beds and a porch with Adirondack chairs in which to relax and anticipate a whale sighting!

Dinner in the restaurant was superb and reservations are clearly needed – it was incredibly busy. Paired with a local wine, we enjoyed oysters on the half shell and flavorful seafood dishes crafted with creativity and care. The following morning, our breakfast (and last meal together) was bountiful, organic and a delicious end to our weekend of wine and peace in Anderson Valley.

Weekend Vibes in Anderson Valley

Melanie, Michelle, Allison and I spent less than 72 hours in Anderson Valley – clearly not long enough, but time for me to have a taste of what this wine country gem has to offer. I’m already anticipating a return trip to experience the genuine friendliness of those who work and live there, the magnificent scenery, delicious food (more crab, please!) and exceptional wines in a peaceful setting.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

For more Grape Experiences delivered directly to you, click here.

For my article about Mendocino’s Crab, Wine & Beer Days 2020, a festival that the four of us attended, click here.