Four Remarkable Places in Porto & the North Where Learning About Wine is an Eye-Opening Experience

While my work trip colleague and I enjoyed our glasses of bubbly and sunset views of the Atlantic Ocean from the terrace of Vila Foz Hotel & SPA in Porto, a gentleman at a nearby table started a conversation. He had overheard snippets of our banter about the week’s experiences in Porto, at wineries in Vinho Verde and the Douro, at a wide range of restaurants and more. He was curious.

Our new acquaintance was from England and now lives in Portugal. When we met, he was with his father-in-law who was visiting for the week. Both wanted to take a deeper dive into the world of Portuguese wines. Their question was this: where or how can someone learn about the history and wines of Portugal, specifically those found in the north, while in Porto or when traveling elsewhere in the region? Our friend hadn’t had any luck gleaning worthwhile information from sommeliers or servers at local restaurants and didn’t know where to start.

I’m guessing that this question is frequently asked. Tourists, visitors in the area for business trips and even locals may crave more wine knowledge than just answering a server’s question regarding price (“Do you want a wine that’s cheap or expensive?”) or color (“Are you drinking white or red?”). So, where can anyone find information about wines from Portugal so that their next wine experience is positive?

Portugal has the greatest range of indigenous grapes in the world and produces impressive wines with character. I’ve tasted more than my fair share of Portuguese wines but honestly, with so many varieties from which to choose, the selection process can be challenging. Fortunately, there are plenty of ways to learn about wines from north Portugal without being intimidated.

While in Porto and the North, I discovered fascinating spots at which to swirl, sip, savor… and learn more about Portugal’s wine history and some of the most unique wines I’ve ever tasted. Below are my latest discoveries.

Wines of Portugal

After a post-lunch boat cruise on the Douro framed by the Porto and Vila Nova de Gaia riverbanks, and a brisk walk around the old, narrow streets of Porto, our group indulged in a wine tasting at ViniPortugal (Rua Flores 8-12, Porto 4050-262) in the city’s Ribeira district.

Founded in 1997 as a private non-profit association to promote the wines of Portugal, ViniPortugal is succeeding in its efforts which have resulted in the country’s wines represented in four continents and four premium markets. With tasting room locations in Lisbon, too, ViniPortugal is your starting point to exploring the diversity of Portuguese wines.

The new space in Porto boasts four dispensing machines that offer visitors the opportunity to taste a choice of 30 wines that represent distinct regions. Winelovers can choose among five themed wine tastings at a cost beginning at 9 euros per person. Held in a private room, up to ten people can participate. That afternoon, our group were treated to a detailed overview of Portuguese wines and tastes of several exemplary examples of wines from specific regions from our gracious, knowledgable hosts. As if I need another reason to return to Porto, ViniPortugal offers wine events when new wines are released, in-depth trainings, workshops and thematic events.

I highly recommend ViniPortugal for your first taste when in Porto. Note that the tasting room is open on Monday through Saturday from 11am to 7pm and on Sundays from April to October.

São Bento Railway Station and Pinhão Train Station

Visit a train station to learn about Portuguese wine? Absolutely! São Bento Railway Station (Praca Almeida Garrett, Porto 4000-069) built in the early 20^th century is in the historic center of Porto, an area designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Besides views of the constant hustle and bustle of travelers coming in and out of this beautiful station (its lights are stunning at night) are about 20,000 larger-than-life azulejo tiles. Designed and painted by Jorge Colac, a renowned painter of azulejo during that time, the magnificent work was completed in 1916 when the station was inaugurated.

Each panel at the São Bento Railway Station represents important moments in Portuguese history and the workings of the people in rural and urban areas. From the boats along the Douro bringing wine casks to Vila Nova de Gaia to horses and plows in the vineyards to watermill workings, I was mesmerized with the beauty of this artistic style that truly enhanced my knowledge of the importance of wine to the people of Portugal. This is a must-visit stop in Porto.

But there’s more! When you find yourself in the Douro Valley (and before or after you visit the Douro Museum profiled below), check out the beautiful tiles at the Pinhão train station, too. The station’s facades are adorned with 25 tile panels that show the painstaking work of the winegrowers and families in the vineyards and the local landscape.

Museo do Douro

A visit to the Douro Valley isn’t complete until you’ve strolled through the Douro Museum (Rua Marques de Pombal 5050-282 Preso da Regua), devoted to promoting the legacy and heritage of the Douro Valley and Port wines. The museum itself is in the restored Casa da Companhia Velha initially designed in 1756 to accommodate administrative functions, winemaking and wine storage, and a court to handle cases related to the Company’s jurisdiction area. It also provided a temporary home for employees and winemakers from around the Douro that had to travel to Regua in order to negotiate the wines at the yearly fair. Clearly, the building is justly termed “one of the most emblematic buildings in the history of the Douro Region.”

All of my senses were heightened as I explored the permanent exhibit “Memory of the Wine Region.” I discovered artifacts that described and explained the history and process of winemaking in the Douro, gazed upon ages-old record keeping books and photographs from Douro winemakers and producers, and hands-on displays that demonstrated the sensory aspects of these unique wines. If you can break away from the thought-provoking exhibits, meander outside and gaze upon a reconstructed rabelos (the boats used for the transport of Port wine from the Douro to Porto) and visit the wine bar overlooking the River Douro for a brilliant finale.

The museum is open from November to March, Tuesdays to Sundays from 10am – 6pm, April to October, Daily from 10am – 6pm, and closed January 1, May 1 and December 25.

CIPVV – Center of Interpretation and Promotion of Vinho Verde

Once you learn about and taste the wines of Vinho Verde, you’ll have another appreciation for this beautiful region in north Portugal. And what better way to start the Vinho Verde journey when in the country than a visit to CIPVV – Center of Interpretation and Promotion of Vinho Verde (Casa Torreada dos Barbosa Aranha, Rua da Fonte da Vila 28, 4990-062 Ponte de Lima) followed by a wine tasting? Of course!

Our group had an informative tour of the museum that offers permanent, temporary and itinerant exhibitions highlighting the history of Vinho Verde, the process of wine making from the planting of vines to its final product and the high quality of the wines produced. I was one of the many guests who couldn’t get enough of the videos, authentic artifacts, photographs and pieces of art. But then again, I’m one of those winelovers (like you) who understand that wine is much more than just what’s in the glass.

At the conclusion of the visit, we put our knowledge to the test and engaged in a guided wine tasting of three wines in the modern tasting room. Swirled and sipped were three regional wines: two flavorful white wines of Loureiro, Casa da Cuquinha 2018, Ameal Escolha 2017, and a rustic red wine of Vinhão (the only red grape of the region), Aphros Vinhão 2017.

The CIPVV is open from Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-12:30pm, 2pm – 6pm and the cost to enter is around 3 euros.