Wines of Roussillon – Once You Taste, You’ll be Hooked

Where can you find a region where the sea and mountains blend, an ideal Mediterranean climate of hot summers, mild winters and autumns is enjoyed and a terroir so varied that its wines reflect distinct personalities? Some may call this place a winelover’s version of Shangri-La, but others may know it as the wine region of Roussillon located in the southwest corner of France in the department of the Pyrénées-Orientales.

I was invited to explore the wines of Roussillon with Kim Loranger, Export Manager for the Interprofessional Council of Roussillon Wines, at a small group tasting at Birch Road Cellars in Chicago. Besides enjoying a delicious lunch paired with samples of the region’s distinctive wines, we discussed the dramatic rise of Roussillon as a wine region and thoughts as to “the why.”

Kim Loranger spoke passionately about the wines from Roussillon and our group listened. The small community of 2535 winemaker families, 29 cooperative cellars and 362 private cellars are the 9th largest producers of wine in France. Thanks to its quilt of micro-terroirs, Roussillon is able to offer a diverse range of wines from 14 AOPs (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) and 2 IGPs (Indication Géographique Protégée).

Roussillon represents only 2% of France’s dry, still wine production by volume and a hearty 80% of its production of Vin Doux Naturels (VDN), fortified sweet wines. Loranger explained that in 2018, the United States represented 12% of Roussillon-exported volumes, being the 4^th largest export market in volume and the 3^rd in value outside of the European Union.

With its amphitheatre-like configuration, Roussillon is open to the Mediterranean Sea to the east and embraced by three massifs: Corbières to the North, the Pyrénées to the West and the Alberes to the South.  Nestled between its three rivers, the Agly, the Tet, and the Tech, is a distinctive landscape. With only one hour’s distance from one end of the Roussillon to the other, the region is accessible to anyone ready to experience its unique beauty.

Numerous geological structures are able to be seen and microclimates felt. From red soils on compact limestone, to stone soils on high terraces, to sandy, stony soils of the foothills, to hydromorphic soils of the basins and even more, twenty-six grape varieties thrive.  The sun shines approximately 316 days per year and the average temperature is 59 degrees Fahrenheit – the region is the driest and sunniest in all of France. Roussillon is protected against pests and diseases due to numerous and frequent winds.

Kim Loranger spoke with pride as she explained that 15% of the vineyards are certified organic with many more practicing organic and biodynamic viticulture. As a result, Roussillon ranks highest in France for these efforts.

Varieties cultivated in Roussillon include white grapes of Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu, Marsanne, Muscat d’Alexandrie, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino and Viognier. Reds grown are Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache Noir, Marselan, Merlot, Mourvèdre, Syrah and lesser known varieties. For more detailed information about the terroir and styles of wines from Roussillon, please click here.

 

The wines of Roussillon are enjoying an astounding growth in a highly competitive market. A savvy marketing plan that includes tours, tastings, brochures and well-placed ads certainly helps. But in my opinion, the wines themselves are the greatest ambassador of this special region. Flavorful, food friendly and ridiculously affordable, once you taste, you’ll be hooked, too! If you’re not yet familiar with wines from Roussillon or if you’re already an ardent fan, find the selections below and pour yourself a glass.

As we gathered at Birch Road Cellars, a chilled glass of Regis Boucabeille, Les Terrasses, AOP Côtes de Roussillon 2018 Blanc ($N/A) was poured. Refreshing, clean and pure, this lovely wine of 50% Grenache Blanc and 50% Macabeu grapes cultivated on soils of schist and stone was a perfect way to start the afternoon. Notes of salt, minerality, bright citrus and stone fruit were lifted with racy acidity. The finish on this wine lingered much longer than I expected. Kim explained that winemakers in Roussillon strive to produce wines that exude freshness and this example was just that. Consider pairing this easy-drinking selection with your favorite light cheeses, shrimp cocktail or hummus with pita.

A lovely rosé from 100% Grenache, the Arnaud de Villeneuve, Le Gris Grenache, IGP Côtes Catalanes 2018 Rosé ($N/A) is from grapes cultivated in selected parcels from a vineyard area located between the Pyrénées and the Mediterranean coast. A cooperative of 150 growers is responsible for its production. Floral, fresh and fruit forward with hints of white pepper and spice, this big and rich rosé had a personality that was an enticing, flavorful accompaniment to our avocado toast, lightly salted chips and guacamole. And that price!

After my first sip of Château de l’Ou Esprit Libre AOP Côtes du Roussillon 2018 Rouge ($N/A), I knew that anything with turkey and bacon would be a savory pairing. A blend of Syrah and Grenache Noir, the rustic profile was rife with notes of black cherries, freshly ground pepper, red meat and salinity. Cultivated on soils of marls with alluvium on the Plaine du Roussillon, I appreciated each sip of this authentic red wine. Can you smell the bacon sizzling yet?

Body and structure are just two descriptors of this wine of 66% Syrah and 34% Carignan grown on soils of granite with clay and organic matter. The Domaine Sous la Montagne, Caramany AOP Côtes de Roussillon Villages 2016 Rouge ($25) boasted aromas of mint, roasted plums, black cherries and earth while the palate exuded flavors of herbs, mixed red berries, cola, chocolate and espresso. Balanced with a creamy texture, framing its luscious profile were bright acidity and fine tannins. Pair a glass or two with lamb, roasted meats and spicy sausages for a memorable meal.

The bottle was alluring and the wine inside absolutely breathtaking! From Maury, La Coume du Roy, AOP Maury 1979 VDN, Tuilé ($172) was from 100% Grenache Noir cultivated in Tuilé on north facing vineyards with soils of black aptian metamorphic schist. Aromas and flavors of fennel, caramel and nuts were exceptional and everyone agreed that anything with curry would be a fascinating pairing.

Another Vin Doux Naturel, Domaine des Schistes, Solera AOP Vin Doux Naturels Rivesaltes, NV Tuilé ($31) can be served with a cheese course, foie gras or your favorite dessert (especially if the dessert includes cinnamon). I discovered mesmerizing notes of baked apple, almonds and walnuts with each sip. From Grey Grenache grapes planted with a few Macabeu strains on shallow soils of brown shale (known as “Tautavel” shale), this wine was a crowd-pleasing favorite. At such an affordable price point, purchase more than one bottle and enjoy the unique tastes of Roussillon.

Cheers! ~ Cindy