Wine and Poetry Unite at Ca’Ronesca and Zorutti in Collio DOC 

When I reminisce upon a recent visit to Collio DOC, nestled in the far northeast corner of Italy within the province of Friuli-Venezia Giulia, fascinating people, a stunning landscape, distinctive cuisine and remarkable wines come to mind. Each had a story to tell, in its own way, of why this region is unique. To understand that narrative, a group of media, journalists, sommeliers and others were invited by Consorzio Collio and IEEM to explore and experience a few days in the region. We met and engaged in conversation with a variety of producers, tasted a bevy of wines during two master classes and a number of tastings, wandered trails surrounding vineyards and castles, visited architectural and cultural landmarks, viewed ancient cellars and much more. The Collio experience was hands-on, palate-pleasing learning at its best.

Ca’ Ronesca and Zorutti

One of the stories of this historic region was revealed during an experience unlike any other – the wines of Collio found a magical pairing at Ca’ Ronesca, located on the border between Italy and Slovenia. As we meandered through its vineyards, walked along a gravel road leading to a small chapel and marveled at the well appointed tasting room, wine tastings were alternated with poetry written by native Pietro Zorutti and expertly spoken in the rhythmic Friulian dialect by a professional actor.

 

The property of Ca’ Ronesca follows the border of the two countries for two kilometers of vineyards and woods. 37 hectares of vineyards are in the town of Dolegna del Collio and 20 hectares surround the Ipplis hill where stands a 100- year-old cypress tree. Chestnut, holm-oak, oak, acacia and juniper trees thrive on the steep, sun drenched slope. Vineyards of Sauvignon, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla and Tocai Friuliano as well as Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Pinot Noir are cultivated. Like other areas of the region, the unique soil, termed Ponca, consists of layered marl and sandstone that offer elements of minerality and salinity to the wines.

The neighboring Zorutti estate was founded by Andrea Paolo Comis in 1966. The old house, home to this family winegrowing estate, dates from 1800; it was the birthplace and home for many years to Pietro Zorutti, famous poet from Friuli. All of Zorutti’s poems were written in the dialect spoken in the Friuli region, “bringing it out of the countryside and transforming it into a cultural testimony in the rest of Italy and the world”. As an homage to his memory, Andrea Paolo Comis named his estate “Zorutti”.

Under vine are 28 hectares of estate-owned parcels that, for the most part, surround the winery headquarters. Both indigenous and international varieties are grown. White varieties include Sauvignon, Pinot Grigio, Friulano, Malvasia, Chardonnay, Ribolla Gialla and Verduzza, whereas red varieties include Pinot Nero, Refosco, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Deemed “special wines” are Schioppettino, Picolit (a dessert wine), Comis’ Black (a red blend), Coè and Coè Rosé (sparkling wines).

The Poetry of Pietro Zorutti and Wines for Pairing

The Poem: While each of us gazed at the vineyards and marveled at the landscape, the first poem “Ce Matine!” was read. Pietro Zorutti describes the moments before the sun rises – the purity of the air, moon, flowers, and vegetation. Elements of the morning offer joy in his heart and Zorutti asks the listener if he or she feels the same. He writes that “the image of morning will live in his heart until he dies.”

The Wine: Just as refreshing and bright as the early morning was Ribolla Gialla 2018 Ca’ Ronesca Collio DOC. Its intense color of sunny yellow was a glorious entry to gentle aromas of orange peel and white flowers while on the elegant, light bodied palate, elevated acidity helped frame notes of juicy citrus, orange zest and the slightest hint of honey. With its easy drinking profile, this was the perfect choice for our first wine of the afternoon.

The Poem: With wine in hand, each of us was mesmerized by the reading of “Zoventut e Primevere”, a poem that describes the charm of spring – birds, love, beauty of the fields and rain. Loosely translated, “spring is the favorite season for a poet’s heart and in his youth, he loved it so much and the ancient feeling is still alive. Suddenly, however, the beautiful images are replaced by a feeling of anguish due to the pain of life.” At the end of the poem, Zorutti “considers that in youth, all is sweet and clear. The years go by causing bitterness, losing love, losing health. But the memory of those early days will always stay in his heart.” How appropriate that I was in Collio in this magical season when Zorutti’s words gave me much upon which to reflect.

The Wine: If it’s springtime, Sauvignon 2017 Ca’ Ronesca Collio DOC should be in the glass. And that afternoon, it was! This beautiful wine shone gold and with every whiff, aromas of dried leaves, a hint of sage and bright citrus were brilliant. On the round palate, this full-bodied Sauvignon burst with lively acidity and flavors of citrus, passionfruit and herbs that led to a lasting finish.

The Poem: At the top of a hill, in the shadow of a small chapel that overlooked the vineyards, another poem, La Piovisine (“Little Rain”) was read. In essence, Zorutti writes that “rain falls, little drops of rain, light rain, without thunder. The birds crave the rain, flying back and forth from their nests. All nature, including me, need the rain for the peace of their spirit. After the rain, everything has a new face.” This poem was appropriate at this time since this May was the wettest since May 1973. (The region enjoys a mild climate with summers that are hot but not stifling and winters that are cold and often rainy.) And as if on cue, a few drops of rain fell during the reading…

The Wines: Two wines, produced by Zorutti Vignaiolo in Delegno, were as gentle and fresh as the words in the poem. Friulano 2018 Zorutti Collio DOC offered complexity, structure and a soft, round mouthfeel along with minerality and bright acidity. Delicate aromas and flavors of almond, chamomile, herbs and citrus were delightful. Zesty and refreshing with mouthwatering acidity, Malvasia 2017 Zorutti Collio DOC presented notes of honey, plenty of fruit and a lingering, savory finish.

The Poem: “Lis Vendemis” (“The Harvest”) was read when our group returned to the tasting room at Ca’ Ronesca. Harvest time, Zorutti pens, is a “beautiful moment of the year when the air is sweet and everyone wants to remain in the field; the city causes sickness. Gentlemen and poor people stay together in confidence and good humor reigns.” Showing Zorutti’s sense of humor, he writes “men make provisions of vats and vessels and in the vineyards men, women and children go to work. They don’t waste grapes but when the head is turned away, they eat so many grapes and happily roll over in the grass!”

The Wine: Evoking an element of joy, not unlike the vineyard workers in Zorutti’s poem, was Pinot Nero 2016 Ca’ Ronesca Collio DOC. Soft and balanced with vibrant acidity and intense notes of cherries, spice and pepper on the nose and palate, this was a well-crafted wine with moderate tannic structure. It begged for a second pour. And yes, I had one…

The Collio experience was defined by a broad variety of learning opportunities. In particular, the afternoon at Ca’ Ronesca and Zorutti offered a glimpse into the life and emotions of an internationally acclaimed poet, moments when I could appreciate the nuances of an unfamiliar language and even more appreciation for the people and wines in this special place.

Cheers! ~ Cindy

For more about the Collio experience, click the title of the articles below.

Collio: One of the Most Unique White Wine Regions of the World

From Collio DOC – Six Enticing White Wines to Find Right Now

Picolit – A Historic, Rare, Sweet Dessert Wine from Collio DOC