Pour Exclusive, Affordable Franciacorta for the Win

One of the first remarks I heard at a recent dinner hosted by Michael Bottigliero, Franciacorta’s Illinois Brand Ambassador, was that Franciacorta is often considered the “Champagne of Italy”. Yes, both regions produce sparkling wines that use bottle-fermentation methods and the same primary grape varieties. However, after learning more about this fascinating region, I realize that Franciacorta exudes its own identity with each sip. Apparently, though, I’m not the only one recognizing the distinct qualities of Franciacorta. The region has been nominated for Wine Enthusiast’s prestigious 2018 Wine Star Award for Region of the Year.

 

The setting was Nonnina, a Chicago restaurant that felt as comfortable and welcoming as any Italian grandmother. I was one of several guests invited by Michael Bottigliero and the Franciacorta Consortium to discover and explore the wines. That night, amidst plenty of sparkling sips paired with delicious food, laughter, and camaraderie, each of us found our own reasons why Franciacorta will be in the glass and on a short list of recommendations for the win. Following are mine…

Franciacorta Reflects the Ages with History in Each Glass

Enjoying a glass of wine isn’t just about a pleasurable palate profile. Its history can be an intriguing element to savoring each sip even more. The backstory of Franciacorta is no exception. Located in the heart of Lombardy, only one hour from Milan, and bordering Lake Iseo, the region includes 19 municipalities in the province of Brescia. Michael explained that Franciacorta was “carved out by retreating glaciers during the Ice Age” and now, 10,000 years later, a natural amphitheatre is evident. Mineral deposits, left by the glaciers, result in rich soil, an element that adds to the aromas of the wine and assists with drainage. The valley experiences hot summers and mild winters; winds flow south from the Lake to prevent fog, humidity, molds, mildews, and pests.

Winemaking has been present in Franciacorta since Roman times yet, through the years, wineries produced vast amounts of wine that were sold and no longer used solely for local consumption. In the early 1960s, now legendary Franco Ziliani produced the first “Pinot di Franciacorta”, an effort that “paved the way for amateur producers of sparkling wine”, even before the category even existed in the area. By 1967, a presidential decree of the Italian Republic made Franciacorta a DOC area. However, it took until 1990 for 29 producers to form the Franciacorta Consortium.

Currently, the region is making the effort to engage in organic farming. At this time, almost 70% of the 117 wineries are certified organic or are undergoing the process, an endeavor that puts Franciacorta at the lead of organic producers of wine in Italy.

The name, Franciacorta, is still considered an enigma, though. One possibility is that it’s derived from “francae curtes” or free courts; in the eleventh century, the area’s newly-arrived Cluniac monks were exempt from duties on their property. Then again, the name “Franzacurta” was found in the annals of Brescia township in 1277 – the word identified its boundaries: between the Oglio river to the west and the foothills of the Rhaetian Alps to the east as well as Lake Iseo to the north and Mt. Orfano to the south.

Now, Franciacorta is the first Italian wine produced exclusively by bottle fermentation to have obtained, in 1995, the Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin (DOCG). The word “Franciacorta” identifies the region, the wine, and the production method that complies “with strict and scrupulous rules intended to certify absolute quality”.

The Wine Styles in Franciacorta are Unique – What’s Not to Love?

The predominant grape variety in Franciacorta is Chardonnay. Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc are found in the blends and as of 2017, Erbamat, an indigenous grape, was introduced. Late ripening, Erbamat lends bright acidity to the wines; its inclusion can only be up to 10%. So far, we don’t see much of this variety in the wines since vineyards are just now being planted and cultivated.

During dinner, we sipped four wines that were exceptional examples of the distinctive styles of Franciacorta. The Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Satèn Brut, 100% Chardonnay fermented in oak barrels, was an elegant beginning to the evening. Besides its structure, balance, and notes of broad fruit, spice, and toasty almonds, I discovered a mesmerizing silkiness on the palate. Produced since 1992, Satèn Brut is exclusive to Franciacorta. It’s characterized by a lower pressure in the bottle that produces that signature satin-like mouthfeel I loved. The name Satèn? It’s from the word “silk”, a commodity that was once produced in the region.

The Corte Bianca Extra Brut is of 95% Chardonnay and 5% Pinot Nero from certified organic vineyards. Aged for 6 months in stainless steel with at least 24 months on the lees, creamy notes of tropical fruit, apricots, raspberries, honeysuckle, almonds, honey, and vanilla wafers blended with lively acidity and a round mouthfeel. The finish lingered with each dancing bubble…

When the cork was popped from the Cabochon Brut Millesimato 2012, I knew we were in for a sophisticated, refined pour. (The word “Millesimato” indicates that all of the wine is from a single vintage year (minimum of 85%). It’s produced when the year’s production is of high quality and is enhanced by a longer period of ageing than non-vintage Franciacorta.) Of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir, notes of fresh almonds, just-cut grass, and juicy citrus were enhanced by mouthwatering acidity, a full mouthfeel, and persistent finish. Fermented in oak barrels, the wine was aged in the bottle for a minimum of 36 months.

The Mosnel Franciacorta DOCG Rosé of 40% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay, and 20% Pinot Blanc burst with intense aromas and rich flavors. Ripe strawberries, freshly-picked apricot, juicy cherries and currants, almonds, and hint of pomegranate were bolstered by lip smacking acidity and a zesty finish. All of the grapes developed their supple character thanks to more than 24 months maturation sur lie.

Just as unique as the wine styles are the wineries. Michael Bottigliero, who has visited Franciacorta, shared that those that experience the region will “see a total small production multi-generational family estate operation, a small winery which purchases grapes thru farm relations, and large operations owned and funded by independent companies with a board of directors. It’s so fascinating to taste their wines side by side, seeing the differences, but noting that the quality level is basically on the same plane.”

We Can Sip Franciacorta Throughout Any Meal

And we did! Proving yet again that sparkling wine is to be enjoyed throughout the meal, each sip of Franciacorta with a plethora of foods was stunning.

Our first course, a passed appetizer of seared tuna on crostini and Stuzzichini Con Fagioli Bianchi Toscani, were flavorful complements to sips of the Ricci Curbastro Franciacorta Satèn Brut.

Next, the Fritto Misto and Pizza Rucola e Prosciutto paired with Corte Bianca Extra Brut. If you’ve not had any Franciacorta with your favorite pizza, now’s the time. Everyone at the table was in food and wine heaven!

Bucatini Alla Carbonara and Risotta di Mare? Yes, please! And complemented with plenty of sips of Cabochon Brut Millesimato 2012, savory, herb laden flavors of meat and fresh seafood burst on the palate.

As if our palates weren’t satisfied already, we happily indulged in Costoletta Alla Griglia Con Patate and Salmone Croccante Con Porri E Pancetta with a full pour of delicious Franciacorta Rosé Mosnel.

Hungry for more Franciacorta and food pairings? Michael Bottigliero enjoys a glass of this beautiful bubbly with pastries, omelettes, lox, bagels, raw meat, sushi, pan fried, roasted or grilled pork, vegetables, and buttery or creamy pasta. The possibilities are endless! While in the region, one of his most memorable pairings was with a “perfectly poached egg placed atop steamed potatoes and topped with shaved bottarga (salted cured fish roe). The light egg white and potatoes mixed with the rich yok and salty roe… it melted perfectly with Franciacorta”.

Last But Not Least, Franciacorta Boasts a Fabulous Price Point

For any of us looking for a wine with a price just as tempting as the quality, choose Franciacorta. It falls between the lower cost of sparkling wines such as Cava, Prosecco, and Cremant and the more expensive price of Champagne. At around $26 – $35, Franciacorta is an exclusive wine that’s accessible enough to open at any occasion and with any meal.

Franciacorta is something different, something that many consumers have loved for the past fifteen years. It’s Italy’s only small region that produces world class sparkling wine. Plus, it’s just fantastic, easily imbibed among friends as an aperitivo and paired with many different courses due to its weight, depth, and structure. Michael Bottigliero, Franciacorta’s Illinois Brand Ambassador

So, let’s do this! Purchase a bottle of Franciacorta from your local wine shop or ask for a glass or two when you dine at your favorite restaurant. Share your thoughts about your experience in the comments below and enjoy every sip! I know I will.

Cheers! ~ Cindy