Wines from The Hess Collection: An Elevated Experience

If you’ve ever been fortunate enough to taste the exceptional wines from The Hess Collection, you’ll note that the experience is elevated. Whenever I sip the lusciousness from this award winning winery, I know that in the glass are quality and elegance. It’s no wonder then that Chicago’s Cindy’s Rooftop, a glorious above-the-trees venue with sweeping views of Lake Michigan, was the setting for my lunch with Dave Guffy, Senior Vice President, Winemaking and Viticulture, and John Grant, CEO, of the Hess Family Wine Estates. I was ready to learn more about the people that are helping The Hess Collection remain in the forefront of wine brands and, of course, taste a few wines that soar higher than so many others.

The Hess Collection

The Hess Collection was founded in 1978 by Donald Hess, a Swiss entrepreneur, who purchased vineyards on Mount Veeder. He was attracted to the location because of its high elevation and challenging mountain climate that, he thought, would be optimal for producing superior fruit for even more superior wines. In fact, Mount Veeder has the highest elevation in the area, the coolest growing season, and incredibly diverse soils.

The winery, located in a historic stone winery originally constructed in 1903, opened in 1989. Since that time, international accolades have been bestowed on the Hess family for their wine, food, and visitor programs. More kudos have been given to Donald Hess for sharing his large, privately-owned contemporary Art Museum that is open for public viewing.

Donald Hess’ philosophy to “nurture the land, return what you take” rings true; The Hess Collection is proactive in sustainable practices in the vineyard and throughout the winemaking process. The Lion has been the emblem of the Hess Family for each generation and symbolizes the persevering nature of its founder. To that end, the family credo is “Live Each Day with the Heart and Courage of The Lion”. I can’t think of a better label than the Lion to honor Donald Hess.

Dave Guffy, Director of Winemaking

When I arrived, Dave Guffy and John Grant were just as convivial and welcoming as I expected. Director of Winemaking for The Hess Collection since 1999, Guffy brought with him many years of experience and expertise. While a Food Science student at California Polytechnic State University, he worked in a variety of restaurants and had the opportunity to explore food and wine pairings. However, once he worked a harvest at a small Santa Cruz Mountain winery, Guffy made the decision to transfer to Fresno State where he majored in enology and viticulture, his new-found passion. He was the winemaker for Cambria Estate Winery prior to taking Donald Hess’ offer to be part of the team. Dave Guffy firmly believes that “wine is made in the vineyard” and he personally works each site “to maximize flavors”. In essence, Guffy remarks, “work with each season, not against it”. His goal is to “make ripe fruit forward California style wines with both power and elegance”. Once I tasted a few new releases, I knew exactly what he meant.

John Grant, CEO of Hess Family Wine Estates

John Grant has held the position of CEO of Hess Family Wine Estates since 2014. He oversees sales, marketing and business operations from the winery’s Mount Veeder location and works closely with Timothy Persson, The Hess Collection Chairman and CEO who is also married to fifth generation member Sabrina. Prior to his stint at Hess, Grant was the Managing Director for Treasury Wine Estates Beringer portfolio, President of Constellation Wine Australia, and Executive Vice President of Marketing for Kendall Jackson Wine Estates where his efforts helped triple key business units.

Selected Wines of The Hess Collection

With two premier wine industry individuals and members of the fifth generation at the helm, the desire to “develop The Hess Collection into a world class brand and destination” appears one that is close to being achieved, if it isn’t already. Wines from The Hess Collection are cultivated in five different vineyards comprising 750 acres on Mount Veeder in the Napa Valley. All of the wines are family owned, sustainably farmed, and reflect a sense of place. Those that I tasted are authentic examples of what The Hess Collection offers.

Our first wine was the Panthera Chardonnay 2016 ($45). Sourced from 100% Chardonnay grapes cultivated in the cool climate of the Russian River Valley, Dave Guffy and the team select vineyard sites that provide fruit with bright acidity and rich, fresh flavors. Aged in 35% new French oak barrels for 15 months, I discovered intense aromas of stone fruit and oak leading to flavors of peaches, ripe citrus, and grilled tropical fruit threaded with lively acidity. The finish was creamy and “ahhhh”-worthy.

It’s always a pleasure to have another sip of the Napa Valley “Allomi” Cabernet Sauvignon 2016 ($32). From the Allomi vineyard in the Pope Valley of the Napa AVA, fruit in the vineyard thrive in the hot climate and well-drained clay loam soil, allowing grapes to ripen with plenty of flavors and complexity. Of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), the addition of Petite Sirah, Malbec, Petite Verdot, and Merlot added nuances that have caused this wine to be one of The Hess Collection’s most popular. On the nose I cherished heady aromas of earth, wild mushrooms, and touch of green pepper. The palate delivered notable flavors of fresh red fruit, oak, and spice that were framed with vibrant acidity and satin-like tannins. The wine was aged in 27% New American oak for 18 months.

The Lion Tamer, Red Blend 2015 ($45) was quite the delicious surprise, in part because of the blend itself: 50% Malbec, 23% Zinfandel, 11% Petite Sirah, 6% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot, 4% Merlot, and 2% Mourvedre. With Malbec as the foundation, bold aromas of plums, blueberries, and lavender were mesmerizing. On the palate, I was intrigued by layers upon layers of flavors framed by bright acidity and generous tannins. I found notes of chocolate, blackberries, and dark plums at the beginning… after the wine opened further, I discovered juicy raspberries and more luscious red fruit leading to a persistent finish. Aged in 40% new French oak barrels for 22 months, this red blend is one of the best I’ve tasted in quite some time.

Last, but certainly not least, the Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 ($65) was a beautiful blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Malbec. Fruit is sourced at the estate Veeder Hills Vineyard where the altitude is 600-1120 feet and soils of sedimentary clay and shale restrict root growth, resulting in vines that produce small berries with intense fruit notes. Dave explained that many of the historic vineyards are in the process of being replanted in order to “elevate the quality of the wines from our mountain home”.  And elevated it is… Aromas of cherries and raspberries were an enticing entry to what was to come… I discovered flavors of blueberries, vanilla, cocoa, spice, butterscotch, and oak – just wow!! The finish lingered… and lingered. The Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 22 months in 80% new French oak barrels.

 

 

It was difficult to leave Cindy’s Rooftop and descend to the ground level. However, I’m planning to visit The Hess Collection tasting room and vineyards later this year. High atop Mount Veeder, it will be another elevated experience, to be sure.

Cheers! ~ Cindy