Chicago Sips and Savors: Orange Wine (and more) at Autre Monde

My recent experience at Autre Monde (meaning “another world” in French) proves, once again, that wine lovers and foodies are able to immerse themselves in world class wines and choices from a tantalizing menu in an atmosphere boasting authenticity and panache…without driving to the city. Owners John Aranza and Christine Tully Aranza along with Chefs Beth Partridge and Dan Pancake, all Spiaggia alumni and partners in the Autre Monde venture, have, for the last five years, treated savvy diners to impressive bar offerings and innovative farm to table menu items that reflect a global influence at their casually chic location in Berwyn, Illinois, just minutes from Chicago.

“When concepting the restaurant, we wanted to reflect the experiences all four partners have shared together. Travel is the best teacher to reveal sense of place.  There is no better way to translate that experience other than using honest, simple ingredients you would find regionally. We have always strived to source responsibly and as fresh as markets provide during any particular season.” John Aranza, Autre Monde

I was invited to explore a sampling of orange wines paired with a choice of fresh, always-made-from-scratch items on the menu one recent evening as a guest of colleagues from Isabelli Media Relations. Intrigued as soon as I reviewed the menu and enamored afterwards by all that I sipped and tasted, Autre Monde is a shining star in the internationally renown Chicago food and beverage scene.

Until that evening, I had never tasted orange wine, a wine that has roots dating back to the cradle of civilization. Simply stated, orange wines are white wines that are produced using red winemaking techniques. Different producers have varied techniques, of course, but in general, orange wines undergo prolonged skin maceration and a certain amount of oxidation, resulting in a bit of tannic structure and a palate profile that may show layers of flavors and complexity. Orange wines are considered “natural”, with little winemaker manipulation of the final product.

While we explored the menu, John Aranza, who is also the Wine Director, offered us a refreshing Macvin Spritzer, a blend of Chardonnay and Ploussard grapes from the Jura region of France. He shared that the Spritzer “is reminiscent of a White Port Spritzer, but with simple orange zest to accentuate the citrus characteristics of the Macvin itself”. As a comparison, our last wine, pure Macvin du Jura, was rich and broad, a delightful pairing with desserts of pot de crème with chocolate hazelnut and seasonal fruit crumble with apples and pears. “On its own, Macvin is a process of boiling down the must and juice of the Savignin grape, then fortifying it with Brandy. No fermentation is required. This is Macvin du Jura in its unadulterated state: lying somewhere between a white port and dry sherry.” But I’m getting ahead of myself…

Served between the first Macvin Spritzer and final Macvin du Jura, were four fascinating orange wines paired with some of the most delectable, cutting edge dishes I’ve enjoyed.

“Orange wines are very complimentary to our menu offerings. The inter-play between the two is an obvious reveal once paired. We’ve had many guests return looking to try different facets of the orange wine spectrum whether lighter or fuller, more extracting versions.” John Aranza, Autre Monde

We began with pintxos (Basque style Spanish tapas) of squid steak, a flatbread of duck sausage with manchego, smoked tomato, and basil, and sweet corn risotto with carnaroli rice, corn, and parmigiano. Each was not only bursting with flavors, but paired beautifully with the first orange wine presented at our already packed table of deliciousness. 2008 Movia Lunar from Slovenia, was a wine aged in select oak barrels and reminded me a bit of sun tea without the sweetness.  John considers this “left of center but thoughtful” and I have to agree; this was an interesting wine that complemented the squid steak and risotto, in particular.

By this time, our small plates arrived. Chosen were shaved cauliflower with apples, pickled onion, cheddar, and pepitas, magret duck breast with cherries, pickled mustard seed, and saba, and grilled octopus prepared gallego style, using sherry vinegar and smoked paprika. 2009 Zidarich Vitovska, from the Friuli region in Italy, was exotic, bold, and flavorful; with the smoke and heat of the grilled octopus, this orange wine was one of my favorite pairings.

Of course we chose a dish from the large plates offerings. Why not? The crispy pork shank with bean ragu, and braised farm greens was cooked to perfection; its tender meat seemed to fall off the bone with every forkful. Two orange wines were served. Fresh and complex with a smooth, round mouthfeel was 2001 I Clivi, an orange wine of Friulana and Malvasia from the Dolomites region of northern Italy. Surprisingly, Beckham Winery in Oregon produces orange wine. The 2013 A.D. Beckham “Amphora” Pinot Gris, unfined and unfiltered, was 100% Pinot Gris left on its skin for thirty days and aged in terra cotta amphora vessels. Fortunately, we revisited each of the wines with the dishes already served…delectable and enlightening thanks to the palate profiles that evolved. Our final bow to the incredible dinner was the aforementioned desserts paired with the “unadulterated version” of Macvin du Jura.

What are my (and your) takeaways from this experience at Autre Monde?

First and foremost, it’s crucial to expand the palate with exceptionally innovative dishes created and prepared by those who have not only learned from the masters, but are masters themselves. Second, continue the wine journey and explore the world of orange wines. It’s worth discovering the flavors, nuances, and complexity of a wine that may be enjoying a renaissance.

To do both, visit another world at Autre Monde.

“Our reputation has been built upon equal and focused delivery of food, beverage, and service. This is what we bring with our combined experience. Guests come to Autre Monde to have a dining experience. I think it’s one of the discerning points of the restaurant. Guests are eager to experience a dish they may have had in Orvieto or a trip to Basque Spain. Questions and curiosity flow freely and orange wines are one of our unique focuses. We couldn’t be more proud.” John Aranza, Autre Monde

Cheers! ~ Cindy

Note: Autre Monde is located at 6727 West Roosevelt Road in Berwyn, IL 60402. Please contact them at info@autremondecafe.net or 708-775-8122.