Savor the Wines from Roussillon

Imagine this: a region where the sea and mountains blend, a place where an ideal Mediterranean climate of hot summers, mild winters and autumns is evident, and a terroir is so varied that its wines reflect distinct personalities. I’m referring to the wine region of Roussillon, in the department of the Pyrénées-Orientales, located in the southwest corner of France. Roussillon represents only 2% of France’s dry, still wine production by volume, but 80% of its production of Vin Doux Naturels (VDN), fortified sweet wines.

I was invited to explore the wines of Roussillon with Eric Aracil, oenologist and Export Manager for the Roussillon Wine Board, at a small group tasting at Maple & Ash in Chicago. Besides enjoying several samples of the region’s portfolio of diverse wines, we discussed the dramatic rise of Roussillon as a wine region. Mr. Aracil, who spoke with passion about the wines from this region, explained that wines exported from Roussillon to the United States have increased by 117% since 2010. In a competitive market, that’s a statistic to share with pride.

With its amphitheatre like configuration, Roussillon is open to the Mediterranean Sea to the east and embraced by three massifs: Corbieres to the North, the Pyrénées to the West, and the Alberes to the South.  Nestled between its three rivers, the Agly, the Tet, and the Tech, is its landscape of unique terroir. Aracil noted that “Roussilllon is not just vine and wine, it’s culture and discovery”.

 

Numerous geological structures and microclimates are present. From red soils on compact limestone, to stone soils on high terraces, to sandy, stony soils of the foothills, to hydromorphic soils of the basins, and even more, twenty-six grape varieties thrive.  The sun shines approximately 316 days per year and the average temperature is 59 degrees Fahrenheit; the region is the driest and sunniest in all of France. (If I ever get the chance to visit, I will!) Roussillon is protected against pests and diseases, thanks to numerous and frequent winds. It’s ranked highest in France for its efforts in organic and biodynamic viticulture.

Family businesses on small, owner managed farms are responsible for viticulture. Full time owners and wine growers manage about half of the 4500 farms in the region. Currently, there are thirty cooperative cellars handling 75% of the wine production, a little more than 500 private wine growers, and sixty merchants marketing Roussillon wines.

The AOC certified dry wines are Collioure (white, rosé, and red), Côtes du Roussillon (red only), Côtes du Roussillon les Aspres (red only), and Côtes du Roussillon Villages (red only), from which stem four specific productions identified by the name of the town: Caramany, Latour-de-France, Lesquerde, and Tautavel.

The AOC certified Vins Doux Naturels are from Rivesaltes, Maury, Banyuls, Banyuls Grand Cru, and Muscat de Rivesaltes.

The varieties cultivated include the white grapes of Chardonnay, Grenache Blanc, Grenache Gris, Macabeu, Marsanne, Muscat d’Alexandrie, Roussanne, Sauvignon Blanc, Vermentino, and Viognier. Reds found in the region are Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache Noir, Marselan, Merlot, Mourvedre, Syrah, and a few lesser known varieties.

I asked Eric Aracil his thoughts regarding why the wines have enjoyed such astounding growth in a highly competitive market. One reason is a savvy marketing plan, featuring international tours and tastings, brochures, and advertisement.  Yet, the obvious explanation (and most delicious) is that the wines speak for themselves. The consumer who has discovered wines from Roussillon are hooked. It’s true. Those that I tasted were remarkably flavorful, distinctive, and thankfully, quite affordable.

If you’re not yet familiar with wines from Roussillon (or if you’re already a fan), you’ll want to find the selections I’ve sampled and reviewed below. In the event they aren’t available in your area, look for another from the region that is similar in style.

Still Wines of the Roussillon

Penya Rosé 2015 (sample) – Mostly Grenache Noir with only 4% Syrah, this crisp, light rose presented gorgeous aromas and tastes of strawberries, raspberries, and melon. Bright acidity with a tart, balanced finish, you’ll love sipping a few glasses with shrimp salad or a French omelette.

Famille LaFage Miraflors 2015 (sample) – A burst of tart, red fruit and red floral aromas was lovely and I couldn’t wait to take that first sip! On the palate of this dry, balanced rosé, I found floral notes, more red fruit, and a steely minerality that led to a perfectly satisfying finish.

Clos des Rey La Sabina 2012 (sample) – Balanced from the first aroma to the last sip, I loved this wine that was a blend of Grenache and Syrah. Gentle spice and cherry notes with a distinctive touch of asphalt were found on the palate. Ever so drinkable, this is a wine to find now.

Bila Haut Occultum Lapidem 2013 (sample) – Notes from Syrah, Grenache, and Carignan were mesmerizing as I tasted this food friendly red from Cotes du Roussillon Villages. Integrated tannins and brilliant acidity lifted its notes of spice and rich red fruit found on the palate.

 

Vin Doux Naturels (VDN)

Domaine de la Coume du Roy Muscat de Rivesaltes Tradition 2014 (sample) – From Muscat d’Alexandrie and Muscat Petits Grains, I found notes of fleshy pear and lychee in this crisp VDN boasting plenty of natural sugar. Pair a glass with blue cheese, spicy, Asian cuisine, anything with garlic (!), and foie gras, if that’s your pleasure.

Mas Lavail Maury Rouge Expression 2012 (sample) – This lovely wine of Grenache Noir can be described as one that is more rich than your favorite full bodied red, but not as sweet or as high in alcohol as a port. Notes of juniper, rosemary, and white lavender were pure and notable. Have dark chocolate nearby…the Maury Rouge is a delicious pairing.

Domaine La Tour Vielle Banyuls Rimage 2014 (sample) – Slightly chill this lovely dessert wine before sipping. You’ll find notes of deep red fruit, sweet cherries, and just enough residual sugar to pair with a fruit compote, cheesecake, rich and chewy chocolate brownies…Pour a bit over a dish of vanilla ice cream and top with a cherry. Perfection!

Savor the wines of Roussillon…one sip at a time!

Cheers! ~ Cindy